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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Réserve de la Comtesse is a superb second wine. Time in barrel and egg white fining have softened some of the tannins the 2015 showed as a barrel sample, but the fruit intensity, pedigree and class of the estate are all in the glass. Black cherry graphite, smoke and licorice are some of…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Réserve de la Comtesse has a fresh, delineated bouquet of cedar-infused red fruit; undergrowth and humidor notes surface with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, and fresh and balanced though not overly complex. It just needs to manifest more nuance and personality on the finish to merit a…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(100% vendange entier; 55% new oak): Deep, dark red. Deeply pitched aromas of medicinal black cherry and clove; less floral and spicy than the regular Malconsorts but smells more important. Sappy and extremely concentrated; hugely rich without any impression of heaviness. According to Sieve, the rows of vines that go into this cuvée are a…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

Bollinger’s 2008 R.D. is a powerful, vinous Champagne. Apricot, dried pear, tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile and brioche all race across the palate. The 2008 boasts notable depth and textural intensity, with a feeling of phenolic, almost tannin-driven grip from the Pinot that propels the finish. At times the R.D. is quite exotic, even…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium red-ruby. Roasted berries, musky espresso, tobacco leaf and a whiff of prune on the nose. Lush and supple, with more obvious sweetness than the 2005 but less shape and thrust. In a chunky style. My suspicion is that the 2005 will ultimately turn out to be a more refined and satisfying wine.

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Nuits Saints-Georges Clos des Thorey 1er Cru comes from the older vines, around 70 years of age, on Cordon Royat, some of which were uprooted in recent years to balance the yield. It contains 50% new oak. The bouquet is quite introverted at the moment and the stem addition a little more tangible…