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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Cos d’Estournel has retained a Cabernet Sauvignon-driven nose, with pencil shaving scents infusing the black fruit, and a touch of dark chocolate and loam coming through with aeration. It is well-defined and composed, though it doesn’t have the complexity of some of the great recent vintages from the estate. The palate is medium-bodied…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Cos d’Estournel has an attractive nose, more complex than the Pagodes (as you would expect), graphite and subtle cigar box scents permeating the black fruit and the Cabernet Sauvignon more expressive at this stage vis-à-vis the Merlot. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. One of the most velvety Cos d’Estournel wines I…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Cos ‘Estournel is a wine of real breadth and volume. It is also quite a departure from recent vintages in that strong Cabernet aromatics are very much front and center. Cedar, tobacco, dried herbs, menthol and licorice lend notable complexity to the bouquet. I expect the 2021 will need time to be at…

Montalcino: The Great 2015 Brunellos & More (Apr 2020)

Luminous red. Delicately smoky and ripe on the nose, with deep raspberry and red cherry aromas complicated by notes of sandalwood, licorice, graphite and sweet pipe tobacco. Full and rich but also very bright, with red and dark berry flavors given life by juicy, harmonious acidity and very nicely framed by supple tannins. Closes long,…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is bright and punchy, with a wickedly fresh burst of wild strawberries, dried roses, sage, mint leaf and crushed stones. This sweeps across the palate, lifted and refined, with silky textures ushering in perfumed red berry fruits as brisk acidity maintains a lovely inner freshness. It tapers off long yet…

2015 Brunello: The Vintage We Have Been Waiting For? (Apr 2020)

The 2015 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino struts its Castelnuovo dell'Abate origins with pride, taking all of the best aspects of this sunny vintage and adding a savoriness that balances everything out so well. The bouquet is a stunning mix of savory cherry sauce, sage, seared meat, cinnamon, moist earth, and a hint of…