Archives: Product Reviews

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2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

Pale, bright green-yellow. Musky peach, spices and truffle on the nose. Vivacious and energetic on the palate, with racy acidity framing the mineral and spice flavors. Finishes taut and long. Like a denser, more concentrated version of the 2008 village wine but in need of two or three years of patience to expand in the…

Where Art Thou Chablis? – Chablis 2021 & 2022 (Sep 2023)

The 2022 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru has a clean and precise bouquet with hints of wild peach, apricot blossom, Mirabelle and crushed stone. The palate is well-balanced with a very harmonious entry, blackcurrant leaf and spice, crushed stone and what feels like plenty of extract on the finish. This has great potential, but…

Where Art Thou Chablis? – Chablis 2021 & 2022 (Sep 2023)

The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a surprisingly primal bouquet with gooseberry, melon, fruits de mer and citrus peel, with more oyster shell scents developing as it opens, though never quite achieving the flair of the Valmur. The palate is well-balanced, steely and strict, with fine intensity and a saline finish. But it…

2019 Burgundy – Further Additions (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from a one-third hectare of vines of which half is en friche (fallow), so only a couple of barrels are produced. It has a very delineated bouquet with enticing citrus peel, crushed pebbles, Clementine and blackcurrant leaf aromas. The palate is very well balanced with impressive concentration and slightly…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru has a crushed stone scented bouquet. A peppermint trace comes through with aeration. The nose is controlled and citrus-fresh, and I admire the energy. The palate is poised and concentrated, and a silver thread of acidity keeps this Grand Cru tensile and focused. Bright and lightly spiced…

2010 and 2009 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2012)

Opaque purple. Red and dark berry preserves and candied flowers on the seductively perfumed nose. Juicy, deeply pitched black raspberry and blueberry flavors are complemented by notes of violet, rose and licorice. Offers an uncanny blend of richness and vivacity, with a seamless texture and no excess fat. Closes on a peppery note, with persistent…