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2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright red-ruby. Expressive aromas of raspberry, cocoa, minerals and violet; very cabernet franc! Juicy, sappy and intense, with sharply delineated if still youthfully imploded flavors of floral red berries and minerals. Offers truly superb intensity and clarity, with harmonious lively acids giving the sweetly spicy red fruit flavors noteworthy penetration and cut. Highly perfumed…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2011 Vieux Château Certan, which the Thienponts compare to 1983 and 1988, has a much lighter, simpler bouquet compared to the previous vintage. Maybe a bit conservative with tobacco-tinged black fruit, though it opens nicely with shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, firm tannins that frame the black fruit laced…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Petrus fooled me when served blind. Its opulence tricked me into thinking it was the Le Pin tasted alongside. This might be partly because this came from magnum. It has a gorgeous nose, more expressive than the bottle at the Petrus vertical, with veins of blue fruit and iodine, thyme and sous-bois. Quite…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2015 Petit Village has previously been one of my favourite vintages of this Pomerol estate, and it has been a little inconsistent of late. It has mellowed nicely on the nose with raspberry, black truffle and light pencil box aromas. The 2015 has gained complexity since I last tasted it. The palate is medium-bodied…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2024: Dark Elegance (Oct 2025)

The 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins is elegance in a glass, opening with intense spicebox, forest floor, melted licorice and fleshy undertones. Superbly balanced by bright acidity and markedly less powerful compared to other vintages like the 1998 or 2005, the energetic and refined 2000 is a thrilling Réserve des Célestins from the late Henri…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Palmer replicates the bottle poured at the vertical a couple of years earlier. It has a very fragrant, quintessentially Margaux-like bouquet with redcurrant, raspberry, cedar and rosemary sporting fine delineation and vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. There is a brightness to this Palmer that I really appreciate, making this a…