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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright medium ruby. Deep, superripe aromas of dark berries, black cherry and bitter chocolate; slightly exotic crystallized fruit aspect. Dense, sweet and wonderfully rich; a lovely combination of palate-caressing chocolatey fruit and firm underlying structure. Finishes with excellent grip and great palate-saturating sweetness. Another outstanding 1996 Medoc wine in the making. Drink 2010 through 2030.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not tasted for a number of years. Matured in two-thirds new oak, it has an open and expressive bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, estuarine scents, touches of liquorice emerging with time. It is higher-toned than the 1995 with iodine evolving with aeration. The…

Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

The 1998 Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil has developed beautifully since I last tasted it. What a wine. For the first few years of its life, the 1998 seemed to lack personality, then, suddenly, seemingly out of nowhere, it blossomed. Today, the 1998 is rich, powerful and explosive, none of which was a few…

Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012 (Apr 2019)

Medium red; the fullest color to this point. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, blueberry, licorice, espresso, wild herbs and underbrush complemented by mocha and meat nuances. Wonderfully broad and rich on entry, then powerful and penetrating in the mid-palate, with its very ripe dark fruit, mocha and espresso flavors accented and enlivened by black pepper,…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deep red-ruby color. Currant, loam, tobacco and smoky oak on the nose. Silky, sweet and tender in the middle palate; leather, game and chocolate notes add complexity to the wine strong currant component. Showing slightly less harmoniously than the ’96, perhaps due to the bottling, but this thoroughly seductive wine has all the components for…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good deep ruby-red. Explosive aromas of blackcurrant, mocha, coffee, molasses and spices. Sweet but firm, with sound acidity contributing excellent vinosity and leavening the wine’s richness. Expressive flavors of raw currant, game and truffle. Thick but not overly fat, finishing with firm tannic spine and excellent persistence.