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Cellar Favorite: 1983 Marchesi Antinori Tignanello

Showing modest bricking on the tuile rim with a light core, the 1983 Tignanello boasts a sublime bouquet: scents of singed leather, bay leaf and pinecones, vestiges of red fruit that unspool with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced and finely delineated. Whilst not a powerful Tignanello, the 1983 has a rustic charm. Balsamic-tinged red…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pavillon Rouge has a really lovely, peppermint-tinged bouquet that is very well-defined and full of vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive concentration. It is not a complex wine, and it might feel just a bit forceful on the slightly leathery finish. But it has a sense of swagger about it that I…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(a 60/40 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot) Good ruby-red. Sexy aromas of currant, black cherry, licorice, flowers, toffee, menthol and chocolatey oak. Juicy, pure and fairly tightly wound, with lovely acidity giving a briskness to the flavors. Finishes with good definition and grip, and a slight dry edge.

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Dominus remains a huge, dense wine. A blast of scorched earth, tobacco, incense, dried herbs, licorice, black fruit and gravel saturates the palate. Brawny and explosive, the 2013 is still very young. It can’t possibly be described as elegant but rather virile, somber and dark. All that said, the 2013 is not ready…

Keeping Everyone Happy: Southwold Bordeaux 2022

The 2022 Langoa Barton has a showy nose, blackberry and blueberry fruit, quite floral in style with well-integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with plush, very ripe tannins. Thankfully, the acidity maintains freshness but this is another Saint-Julien that feels dictated by the summer heat and detracts from its complexity. I believe there are better…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Langoa-Barton is racy, open-knit and quite delicious. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, mint and spice give the 2022 palpable freshness to play off its gracious, mid-weight personality.