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Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

It has been a few years since I tasted the 1991 Grands-Echézeaux from DRC. Now 29 years old, it has an ethereal, pure bouquet of vivacious red fruit, becoming floral with aeration and developing an unexpected subtle garrigue note. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, superb backbone and a keen line of acidity….

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of black cherry, minerals and licorice. Full, sweet and fat with fruit; can’t quite match the Richebourg or RSV for floral high tones of sheer complexity but this too possesses a deep core of almost medicinal blackberry, licorice and menthol flavor. Perhaps a bit subdued today but stuffed with material….

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Village just feels a little lean on the nose where I seek more flesh and terroir expression. The palate is better with clean, pure blackberry and cranberry notes, a dash of spice and commendable structure on the Morey-like finish. Like the 2013 Gevrey Village, I would like to see the aromatics develop…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Bright medium red. Black cherry, smoke, menthol and a leathery nuance on the nose. Spicy black cherry and licorice flavors show a juicy quality but only moderate depth. Bright acidity underscores the impression of cool medicinal reserve. A bit slight and dry on the finish. Will evolve quickly.

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Good deep ruby-red. Spicy aromas of blackberry, licorice and coffee. Ripe, lush and deep, showing lovely lift to the violet, licorice and dark berry flavors, this finishes firmly structured and long on the aftertaste. Seems a little clenched to me in the midpalate and needs years in the cellar to expand fully.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

(this spent 45 days on its skins, and was then aged entirely in new French barriques for 40 months with minimal racking; Grasso’s other two Barolos are aged in 25-liter Slavonian oak casks): Good deep red. Expressive aromas of cherry, redcurrant, raspberry, violet, mocha and spicy oak, with savory and leathery nuances. Broad, dense and…