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2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2015 Salon is exquisite. Bright and focused, the 2015 captures a gorgeous stylsitic middle ground between the riper and cooler years. The flavor profile leans towards the more citrus, floral and mineral-driven end of the spectrum typical of cooler years, and yet the wine is also wonderfully open-knit and accessible, with no hard edges…

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

The 2013 Cuvée S is a young icon in the making. A delayed growing season with heat during the summer and a late harvest yielded a superb, wonderfully complex Salon, a Champagne that balances ripeness, acid and structure. Citrus, slate and floral overtones appear first, before hints of white pepper and chalk add layers of…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Montrachet Grand Cru is habitually never the most expressive at this stage, eventually unfolding with green apples, freshly sliced pear and light flinty aromas. There is something a bit sultry about the aromatics. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, hints of orange pith and tangerine, and very fine depth…

Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Retrospective: 1993-2016 (Feb 2025)

This is more closed up initially than I expected from this hot vintage, certainly not as open or exuberant as the 2015. But with coaxing a spicy nose emerges. On the palate it is round, generous and harmonious and becomes more so with air. The wine has lots of everything, red and black fruit and…

2009 Red Burgundy (Jan 2011)

Good deep red. Very dark, complex aromas of blackberry, violet and licorice, lifted by a peppery nuance; slightly liqueur-like. Then powerful and large-scaled, with confectionery dark berry and pepper flavors saturating the entire mouth. With so much baby fat here, I don’t yet find a great deal of detail. Mugnier notes that this is 14.5%…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru is a wine that threw me at first. The high-toned, slightly smudged bouquet doles out the requisite blue fruit without much in the way of terroir expression, which, frustratingly, only seems to be revealed after 15-20 minutes. The palate is rounded and, again, quite vivacious and high-toned, featuring…