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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 69/31 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 72 IPT; 3.81 pH; 13.7% alcohol) Deep, bright ruby-purple. Classic highly perfumed aromas of blackcurrant, violet, crushed stone and gunflint. Bright, clean and concentrated but currently backward, with densely packed black fruit and mineral flavors displaying a wonderfully precise, penetrating quality. Finishes long and subtle, with an…

Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)

The 2010 Château d’Issan has a very intense bouquet with layers of black fruit interlaced with wild hedgerow, touches of iodine and brine that I noticed on the same bottle a couple of years ago. This still requires a couple of years (or 2-3 hours of decanting) before serving. The palate is much more refined…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright medium ruby. Wild, musky aromas of black raspberry, cassis, cedar, smoke, leather, game and bitter chocolate. Dense, chewy and dry, with good peppery lift to the cherry skin and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes with surprisingly fine-grained tannins and a juicy quality. This dry, classic claret needs time in bottle to gain flesh and sweetness….

2015 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: In the Zone

The 2015 Opus One is every bit as glorious as it was on release. I am so taken with the wine’s freshness and verve. Flowers, red-toned fruit, spice and blood orange are very finely delineated. In its youth, the 2015 was decidedly exotic and flamboyant. Time has done a lot to settle down some of…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Beychevelle is a vintage that I have not encountered for a number of years. This feels quite restrained on the nose; dark berry fruit commingles with black tea, autumn leaves and a background scent of kelp. The palate is medium-bodied with a soft, pillowy entry, slightly lower in acidity than its peers, with…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2010 Brane-Cantenac marked the first year that optical sorting was used and the replanting of a parcel of Petit Verdot. This has long been a favourite vintage, the nose in a class of its own with mineral-driven black fruit, graphite and just a touch of Earl Grey. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins….