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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Blackcurrant, plum, tobacco and black olive nose is more complex and serious than that of either of the foregoing vintages. Thick, grapey and concentrated; still quite primary. This shows the fat and depth of the ’96 vintage in the northern Medoc. Finishes long, with substantial tannins. Impressive.

Vinous Table: Elystan Street, London, United Kingdom (Sep 2020)

The second bottle, from an estate I know like the back of my hand, was the 1996 Pontet Canet. One or two people had suggested that this might be past its best; after all, it predates the innovations and application of biodynamics overseen by Alfred Tesseron by several years. On the contrary, it has aged…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Very fine mousse, with abundant bubbles. Medium straw color. Strong notes of yeast and butter on the nose, along with tangerine and Meyer lemon. Plump and supple on the palate, showing tropical flavors of fresh pineapple and papaya. Quite graceful in texture, finishing with subtle notes of mace and cinnamon. An impressive showing.

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1985 Lynch-Bages has long been one of my favorite vintages from this decade. The bouquet is very elegant—one of the best I have encountered—with mint and cassis aromas on the nose along with pencil shavings joining the chorus line with time. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of freshness, salinity and lovely symmetry on…

Montevertine: Le Pergole Torte 1980-2012 (Jan 2016)

The 1996 Le Pergole Torte, from a cold, late-ripening vintage, is powerful and explosive, with a compelling interplay of ripeness, sweetness and structure. Cherry jam, wild flowers, mint, sweet spices, menthol and licorice meld together in the glass, while lavender, rose petal, quinine and a host of aromatic notes come alive on the finish. Although…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold color. Deep, rich and toasty on the nose, with suggestions of earthy truffle, cocoa and candied apple. This is really classic Bollinger in style. Rich, broad and thick, with weighty poached pear and buttered toast flavors that linger on the finish with real authority. Fans of the house style will adore this.