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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Château Margaux is slightly bricking on the rim, quite deep in color. The nose has retained satisfying freshness. Dusty red bricks and gravel scents infuse the mainly red fruit. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, harmonious, fresh with good tension and touches of white pepper and clove. It approaches full…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Léoville Poyferré has a magnificent nose that is a cut above its peers: more concentrated, more delineated and has stunning depth with complexity that only comes through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, but this Saint-Julien has real backbone and density, with impressive substance towards the finish. One of the…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Lafleur is quite a bit less showy than most Pomerols in this vintage. I suspect the high percentage of Cabernet Franc may have something to do with it. Aromatically intense, but also austere, the 2005 feels like it needs more time. The bouquet is captivating, but huge tannins make Lafleur much less accessible…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 895) Saturated, bright ruby-red. Brooding, liqueur-like aromas of blackberry, cassis, smoked meat, licorice and menthol. Compellingly dense, sweet and concentrated, with silky fruit that saturates the entire palate without any excess weight. A very backward, firmly structured wine that offers an uncanny combination of early sweetness and firm but harmonious acidity. The wine’s dark…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2005 Lafleur has always been a bit of a beast. It is clearly nowhere near its drinking window either on the nose or palate. Blackberry, gravel, wild heather and graphite scents reluctantly emerge on the nose, but it is a little surly compared to the 2008, for example. The palate is huge in terms…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Dark violet color. Powerful, spice- and mineral-tinged black and blue fruits, incense, violet and smoked meat on the expansive nose. Rich yet surprisingly energetic, offering palate-staining blueberry, cherry-cola, floral pastille and licorice flavors that become sweeter as the wine opens up. Shows excellent energy and spicy thrust on the clinging finish, which is given shape…