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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1994 Léoville Las Cases has a really lovely bouquet with red berry fruit, sous-bois, cedar and tobacco, an archetypical Las Cases with plenty of vigor. The palate is well balanced, a little austere but in a good way, with fine cohesion and freshness. Tobacco and black pepper appear on the finish. Given market prices,…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, USA (Jun 2025)

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles from Domaine Leflaive is young and tightly wound. There’s terrific palate density, along with the classic Leflaive reductive notes, all of which suggest brilliant drinking ahead. I would not dream of touching a bottle anytime soon.

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1988 Yquem is similar to the bottle I tasted two years earlier, one of my favorite vintages from that decade. Orange pith, quince, wax resin, and mandarin blossom on the nose, yet there is more control and focus than in other warmer vintages. The palate is underpinned by a wonderful frisson of acidity that…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1991 Palmer comes from a challenging, frost-affected vintage, yet the bouquet is splendid with plenty of red and black intermingled fruit, rose petals, violet with orange pith and light menthol scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, lithe in the mouth and harmonious. Maybe it lacks a bit of grip, yet there is…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Calon Segur is a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. Though I have tasted most vintages of this estate since 1982, this was in fact the first time to taste this particular vintage. It has a rustic, slightly ferrous bouquet, dominated by black fruit, copper…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Aromas of sweet cherries, mocha and oak. A straightforward, round wine that lacks the sweetness and mid-palate richness of the vintage. Seems slightly pinched on the finish. Where’s the ripeness? 84. A second sample showed considerably more fat and richness, as well as ripe finishing fruit, and merited an 87.