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2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Deep red. Expressive aromas of redcurrant and tobacco. Juicy, pure, intensely flavored and sharply focused; has a penetrating minerality that carries through to the firmly tannic finish. Should develop quite slowly.

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Deep ruby-red. Black fruits, licorice, minerals, tobacco and iron on the complex nose. The wine’s sweetness almost comes as a shock, but the creamy blueberry and blackberry fruit flavors are given lift and clarity by firm acidity and solid underlying minerality. Finishes with sweet tannins and subtle persistence. An unusually accessible young Forts de Latour,…

The Wines That Shaped My Life (Mar 2022)

The 1983 Pichon Comtesse de Lalande is now fully mature and expressive. Pretty red berry fruit mingles with graphite and cigar box. This bottle shows a little camphor with aeration. The palate is supremely well balanced, less powerful than a few years ago, harmonious and smooth, unpretentious and quintessentially Pauillac with its pencil shaving-tinged, elegant…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

This bottle of 1983 Pichon-Lalande (I really can’t be bothered to type out its full name) is the best of many encountered over the years. This offers gorgeous melted red fruit, woodbines, smoke and cigar humidor scents that could only come from Pauillac. Hints of black truffle and morels follow after about an hour in…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Latour was mind-blowingly profound in two recent tastings for this report. Deep and sensual to the core, the 2005 is utterly captivating. All the elements are so seamlessly put together. Graphite, crème de cassis, licorice, dark spice and lavender infuse the 2005 with so much energy. More than anything else, though, the 2005…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 500-$2,000) Deep ruby-red. Reticent, brooding aromas of cassis, black plum, graphite and flowers. Then utterly explosive in the mouth, with wonderful sappy complexity of flavor and a thickness of texture that builds and builds toward the back; almost no sign of the new oak here. Offers a near-magical combination of power and refinement, but…