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Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chablis is beautifully pure, but also classically austere, which of course won't be an issue in time, but should be a consideration for readers who want something to drink now. The orchard fruit, citrus, mint and floral notes are very nicely delineated, especially for a village-level wine. I came back to the Chablis…

Mirror Image: 2016 & 2017 Chablis (Aug 2018)

The 2017 Chablis is more backward compared to other vintages at this stage, but it opens nicely with scents of desiccated orange peel, almond and a touch of curry leaf. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, rather precise with a poised and quite sustained finish that lingers in the mouth.

Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)

The 2011 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre is all about grace. A gentle hint of spice leads to dried pears, crushed flowers, red berries and licorice. Constantly changing in the glass, the 2011 is a marvel to behold. Suggestions of smoke, graphite and licorice add layers of nuance in a magical wine loaded with class and…

2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

Pale yellow. Stone fruits and spices on the nose. Supple, fat and plush but dry on the palate, with very ripe peach and nectarine fruit flavors dominating. Finishes dry, with a flavor of dusty stone. This is actually rather closed in the middle palate today and tricky to taste.

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru offers striking precision in its combination of density, richness and energy. Absolutely nothing stands out in a wine that truly dazzles from the very first taste. Citrus, slate, white pepper, mint and crushed rocks all race out of the glass as the aromatics come alive with a bit of…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is a wine that I have tasted a dozen times, from barrel until now, blind and non-blind. From the beginning I have been critical of this 2009, a wine built to appease the prevailing demand for hubristic, flamboyant Claret that in the process, lost the essence of its own character and…