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Cellar Favorite: 1986 Mouton-Rothschild

As it nears 40 years in age, the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is acquiescing to time, those huge tannins polymerising as primary fruit evolves into secondary. The nose is a cornucopia of scents—blackberry, cedar, mint and freshly picked violet—all delivered with equal precocity and control. This is the first time that this Mouton-Rothschild has conveyed a more…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from several lieux-dits and was taken from vat as the final blend. It has a perfumed, slightly minty bouquet. The palate is balanced with slightly lower acidity than the previous vintage. It's quite light with a touch of sour lemon on the finish. Fine, but it needs to gain a…

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Saffredi is a regal, elegant, supremely polished wine. It may very well be the most refined Saffredi I have ever tasted. Silky in its first impression, with striking aromatic presence and exceptional balance, the 2018 is a total knock-out. Sweet red cherry, plum, mocha, licorice and cinnamon accents develop over time, but it…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Haut-Bailly is unbelievably finessed from start to finish. A wine of unreal class, the 2005 impresses with its silky, mid-weight personality and fantastic balance. The aromatics aren’t fully expressive today, but everything else about the 2005 is absolutely irresistible. Despite its considerable charm, Haut-Bailly comes across as still needing time in bottle to…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good bright medium ruby. Deep aromas of plum, currant, tobacco, mocha and menthol. Superripe and rich but with superb ripe acidity and firm tannins currently keeping the fruit and mineral elements under wraps. Just this side of severe today: here’s a 2005 that appears already to have shut down in the bottle. Best today on…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Haut-Bailly has an impressive bouquet with brambly black fruit, gravel, sous-bois and light truffle scents—quite complex and very harmonious. There is a little more precision here compared to its 20-year-old peers. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins on the entry, making this a quite firm and more “masculine” Haut-Bailly that would benefit…