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Cellar Favorite: 1990 Château Latour (Nov 2019)

Tasting the 1990 Latour is like running into a long-lost friend. Still dark, deep and spectacularly flamboyant, the 1990 possesses remarkable textural richness from the very first taste. Time in the glass brings out a whole range of pencil shaving, dark fruit, chocolate, licorice and spice flavors, but more than anything else, the 1990 is…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium-deep red. Great vibrant nose of redcurrant, licorice, minerals and tobacco, along with a minty austerity. Thick and large-scaled, like an essence of Pauillac. Really explodes in the middle palate. Incredible unfolding peacock tail of a finish. A monumental, powerfully structured wine with great long-term aging potential. Drink 2008 through 2040.

Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ Bouchon Racine, London, UK (Oct 2024)

Finally, the 1990 Latour is a vintage that I have not drunk for five years. It is surprisingly youthful on the nose, with dense black fruit, cedar, violet petals and graphite, and it is less opulent than previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with beautiful poise, and the tannins are more polymerized than the magnum…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1991 Latour is a supposed “off vintage” that I have not tasted for a decade or more. It has a fully mature nose, though certainly not past its best at 33 years of age, with dark, brambly red fruit, loam and light floral scents that percolate through with time. This is an atypically “gentle”…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Certan de May is a powerful, dense wine. Graphite, smoke, grilled herbs and dark red and purplish fruit confer a real sense of gravitas that also comes through in the wine's unctuous fruit and overall richness. The 2017 packs a serious punch, that is for sure. Although not the last word in finesse,…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Certan de May is a Pomerol that I am fond of, yet recent vintages have left me perplexed. This vintage does nothing to reduce the number of lines across my furrowed brow. The aromatics never click out of second gear, plenty of earthy, decayed leaf aromas but insufficient fruit to really make the…