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Quinta do Noval: Recent Vintages 2011-2020 (Nov 2022)

The 2016 Vintage Port was picked mainly from 19 September in ideal conditions. It is more broody than the 2017 at the moment and demands a little more encouragement from the glass. I have been prudent with my reviews in the past, but this 2016 seems to have considerably improved in the four years since…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Léoville Barton has a delightful bouquet that has held up much better than the 1999 Langoa Barton, brimming over with vivacious black fruit, wild strawberry and cedar; hints of tobacco emerge with time in the glass. This is classic Saint-Julien. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit laced with black olive, tar…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Perfumed, brooding aromas of blueberry, blackberry and mint. Cooler, tighter and more austere than the Langoa, with solid density and an almost medicinal aspect. Less obviously sweet today than the Langoa-Barton, but has a more serious tannic structure for aging. Rather backward for a ’99, and in a tough stage today.

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish,…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.

Vinous Table: Casa Julián, Tolosa, Spain (May 2025)

The 2009 Gran Reserva 904 is a stunning Rioja. Pure crushed strawberry, Morello cherries, fireside hearth and terracotta on the fabulous, exquisitely defined bouquet leaves you instantly entranced. The palate is so elegant and refined with its cashmere tannins, perfectly pitched acidity and sumptuous red-fruit driven finish. It is everything I love about Rioja.