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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Léoville Las-Cases has the finest nose of the three Léoville: the best delineation and focus with more complexity and slightly more fruit, though it is still very “classic” in style. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, decent weight, not complex yet harmonious with just a touch of herbaceous that one can easily…

Vinous Table: Brat, London, UK (Aug 2018)

The 2016 Saint-Aubin Cuvée Marguerite from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is a multi-vineyard blend after frost devastated his vines. This is delicious, quite aromatic on the nose with hints of wild honey, almost like a 2015, touches of peaches and cream after 20 minutes aeration. The palate is harmonious and generous with a fine bead of acidity,…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Noyers Bret has a well-defined bouquet with apple blossom, grass clippings and granite aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, good concentration with a slightly petrolly finish. This is one of the best cuvées from Pillot.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has a fresh bouquet, perhaps just lacking a little terroir expression, possibly because around 50% here was lost to frost. The palate is better with a sappy entry, a decent spine of acidity and lightly spiced towards the finish. I suspect the aromatics will open by the time of bottling.

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Au Bout du Monde comes from a parcel of vines recovered by Pierre-Yves in 2016, necessitating re-planting; therefore, the vines here are young. This has a lively, precocious bouquet with white peach and citrus scents. The palate is impressive: vibrant and energetic, quite peppery in style with a precise…

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Subdued aromas of ripe peach and orange; I would have picked this as Meursault from the nose. Powerful, bright and sharply delineated but quite shocked by the bottling today and a bit awkward as a result. Today this very young wine lacks the sweetness of Coche’s Meursault bottlings. Perhaps best on the long, well-defined aftertaste.