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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Good deep red with ruby highlights. Delicate aromas of blackcurrant, dark plum and spices on the floral, perfumed nose. Suave and smooth, with a refined, pure quality to the redcurrant, cedar and tobacco flavors. Hardly a blockbuster, this very nicely balanced wine finishes smooth, with fine-grained, pliant tannins. This rather delicate wine should offer plenty…

The Best New Wines from Spain (Sep 2006)

Deep red. The nose shows darker fruit tones than the 2001 Reserva, with cherry preserve and dark berry aromas complicated by exotic oak spice. Dense and lush, with a chewy quality to the sweet flavors of cherry, plum and dark chocolate. Rich, broad and supple through the sweet, long, ripely tannic finish, with a note…

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Subdued aromas of ripe peach and orange; I would have picked this as Meursault from the nose. Powerful, bright and sharply delineated but quite shocked by the bottling today and a bit awkward as a result. Today this very young wine lacks the sweetness of Coche’s Meursault bottlings. Perhaps best on the long, well-defined aftertaste.

The Wines That Shaped My Life (Mar 2022)

The 1999 Richebourg Grand Cru is a wonderful wine, even if this is not the best bottle that I have encountered. That is principally because the nose does not quite convey the crystalline purity of the previous example poured in Hong Kong. Although, the vibrant dark berry fruit and crushed stone aromas remains in situ….

A Birthday Dinner at Momofuku Ko, New York (May 2016)

The 1999 Richebourg is simply majestic. In fact, 1999 may be a year in which the Richebourg is just a bit more complex than the La Tâche. Hoisin, smoke, exotic spices and rich, unctuous fruit flesh out in the glass. The 1999 has more than enough fruit to fill out its big, broad frame. It,…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

(13% natural alcohol, rare for this domain) Saturated ruby-red. Knockout, utterly noble nose of black plum, blackberry, violet, minerals, earth and flowers, plus an exotic suggestion of blood orange. Full, suave and dense; manages to be utterly silky and precise at the same time. Wonderfully fresh and perfumed in the mouth. Finishes with great mounting…