Archives: Product Reviews

Woocommerce product reviews

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Deep garnet. A highly perfumed, complex bouquet evokes red and blue fruits, incense, pipe tobacco, vanilla and mocha, along with smoky mineral and spice nuances that build in the glass. Sappy, palate-staining black raspberry, cherry compote, succulent herb, candied rose and vanilla flavors show excellent depth and clarity, while a spine of juicy acidity contributes…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1990 Ducru-Beaucaillou was matured in two-thirds new oak for 12 months. Ever a controversial vintage because of the problems in storage that tainted some of the production (not all), this bottle had a clean nose but one that felt a little one-dimensional, with simple red berry fruit and earthy notes, becoming increasingly herbal with…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Very good medium color. Minerals, licorice, and earth notes on the nose; but two samples showed the slight musty quality that has plagued so many young Ducru bottles beginning with the ’85 vintage. Quite unevolved on the palate; lean for the vintage, but nicely delineated and understated. Firm tannins appear somewhat dry. Impossible to assess,…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Village has a fresh bouquet, perhaps just lacking a little terroir expression, possibly because around 50% here was lost to frost. The palate is better with a sappy entry, a decent spine of acidity and lightly spiced towards the finish. I suspect the aromatics will open by the time of bottling.

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis Mont Luisants 1er Cru Blanc has a very impressive, mineral-driven bouquet with assiduous reduction that lends edginess without impeding upon terroir expression. The palate is very well balanced with great depth and the volume I often look for in a Mont Luisants, almost creamy in texture on the very “gras” finish. Excellent….

Cellar Favorite: 1985 Cheval Blanc (Sep 2024)

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1985 Cheval Blanc. When this was poured, a guest enquired whether I liked it, to which I replied: “It’s Cheval Blanc…It’s 1985…Of course!” Now, approaching four decades old, I suspect the 1985 will not improve further, except in a larger format. This bottle shows minor…