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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Vougeot Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot 1er Cru, a monopole of the domaine, certainly has a better bouquet than other Vougeraie whites this year, offering more precise, mineral-driven yellow stone fruit mixed with yellow flowers. The palate is well balanced with quite a rich and generous opening, counterbalanced by a fine thread of…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a generous bouquet, the discreet stem addition lending an attractive leafiness that complements the brambly red fruit. More undergrowth scents emerge with time. The palate is silky-smooth on the entry, very plush but controlled, and despite the opulence, terroir floods through this Bonnes-Mares, which fans out wonderfully on the…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Echézeaux En Orveau Grand Cru is quite “strict” on the nose, a little taciturn at first, offering more black than red fruit and undergrowth and light granitic aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and heightened acidity. There’s quite a lot of finesse here, though it needs a little more grip and…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru has a potent nose: think of grandmother’s potpourri you smelled in her old house. It almost overwhelms that red fruit behind it. The palate is well-balanced with pure red cherry, wild strawberry, and finely-knit tannins. It’s one of the more elegant Cortons tasted with a touch…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, the 0.83-hectare monopole of the domaine, was picked three times. It was showing a bit of reduction on the nose when I visited. The rounded palate features lime cordial, tinned apricot and plenty of passion fruit and pineapple notes toward the finish. This is a…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru has a more fruit-driven bouquet than Mallard’s Corton Renard: plummy, mulberry and light iris flower scents unfold in the glass, impressive in terms of presence. The palate is medium-bodied with thick, juicy tannins. This is quite a bold and fleshy Corton, though it feels a little…