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A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a sweet and quite candied bouquet, plush in style, more like a 2022 than a 2021! Quite sensual, if just missing some complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins that exert just the right amount of grip. Good density, though not overpowering, this delivers a pleasing…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2003 Dom Pérignon is in a gorgeous place right now. To be sure, it is a powerful Champagne that reflects the personality of a year marked by frost, that took out 70% of the Chardonnay, and then record heat and drought over the summer. The 2003 is just starting to head into its first…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2009 Latour has an open and generous bouquet: a mixture of red and black fruit and touches of graphite and loam. This vintage displays a light marine/brine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a firm grip and superb balance. This is very focused, with impressive salinity on…

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2008 Beychevelle was undeservedly relegated to the “off-vintages” during this tasting, but it is certainly not that. This has plenty of blackberry, cedar, ash and pencil lead scents on the nose. It has real Saint-Julien typicité. The palate is medium-bodied with solid tannins. The texture feels a bit gritty, but there is freshness and…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Good full ruby. Initially dusty, herbal aromas of dark plum and flowers are nicely complicated by hints of soy sauce and Chinese spices. A juicy midweight with a fine-grained texture and a restrained sweetness to its blackcurrant and mineral flavors. Not a big wine but stylish, with very polished tannins and a long, graceful finish….

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Red-ruby. Perfumed aromas of redcurrant, licorice, chocolate, flowers and baking spices. Classic taut claret, showing insidious intensity without weight. Juicy, nicely delineated flavors of redcurrant, black cherry, pepper and herbs. Finishes vibrant and persistent, with ripe, dusty tannins and a lingering note of redcurrant.