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Champagne for Everyone (Nov 2000)

Multidimensional nose of lemon, apple, minerals, nut skin, mushroom, honey, toffee and coffee. Tiny bubbles. Powerful, rich and solid as a rock, with strong mineral underpinning. Great concentration and structure. Finishes with almost painful intensity and remarkable persistence. Extremely expressive on the nose, but still evolving in the middle palate and likely to be long-lived.

Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)

Good deep red-ruby. Raspberry, licorice and an enticing floral quality on the nose. Lush, smooth and sweet, with lovely violet lift giving energy to the dark berry, sweet pipe tobacco and milk chocolate flavors. This broad, rather generous wine finishes with ripe tannins and very good length. (A second bottle was gamey and earthy; my…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Highly aromatic, penetrating aromas of ginger, coffee, lemon curd; complex yeast autolysis notes. Intensely flavored and quite dry in the mouth, with strong acidity giving the flavors a slightly tart edge. Very much in the leaner style of the ’88 vintage, but this very fresh wine seemed to gain length in the glass.

Taittinger: Comtes de Champagne 1971— 1998 (Aug 2010)

The 1989 Comtes de Champagne is darker in color than the 1988 and also quite a bit more forward. Candied orange peel, spices and caramel suggest it is on a fairly quick path. Today the 1989 is most impressive for its generous texture and complete, developed personality. This won’t make old bones, but it is…

Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States (Jun 2025)

The 2000 Château Margaux is one of the standouts of the millennial year. This bottle is consistent with the example two years ago, with tightly coiled black fruit, pencil box and violet scents, perhaps the floral element more expressive this time around. The palate has marvellous balance, real weight and density that is atypical for…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Good deep red. Knockout nose combines black cherry, blueberry, minerals and dark chocolate complicated by truffley soil tones. Rich and densely packed, with captivating peppery lift to its very ripe black and blue fruit flavors. This was deceptively accessible in November but has the solid structure and length to support a long evolution in bottle.