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A Birthday Dinner at Momofuku Ko, New York (May 2016)

The 2005 La Tâche is simply magnificent. There is not too much I can add. Deep, powerful and richly textured, the 2005 simply has it all. Time in the glass releases the aromatics, but it is the wine’s pure sensuality I find most enticing. A host of dark red and blue stone fruits, hard candy…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep ruby-red. Superripe aromas of cherry, currant, tobacco and smoky, nutty oak, with traces of vanilla and sweet butter; showing less of the early treble notes of flowers and spices than usual for La Tache but they are lurking in the background. Then wonderfully supple, silky and sweet, conveying an impression of brooding extract; quite…

Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s (Mar 2024)

The 2005 La Tâche Grand Cru is just starting to be approachable, although I would not begrudge anyone who might prefer to cellar it for a few more years. I am struck by the wine’s huge core of dark fruit and magnificent sense of proportion. Time in the glass brings out the classic range of…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1986 Lafite-Rothschild is a great wine although over several recent encounters it is never a convincing perfect wine. This mirrors the bottle I tasted at the property in 2016: blackberry and graphite on the nose, gawky at first, but coalescing with time. The palate is well balanced with firm tannins, strong graphite scents unfolding…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Margaux is a compelling, arrestingly beautiful wine that expresses all the best qualities of the vintage. Dark, fleshy and richly textured, the 2015 nevertheless retains the super-classic Margaux sense of structure. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s rich, multi-faceted personality. I imagine the 2015 will enjoy a very long and uninterrupted…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(Boillot’s four-hectare monopole within Les Perrières features a range of soil types; he takes two days to pick this fruit, assembling his batches at the very beginning): Knockout nose combines ripe stone fruits, lemon, lime, smoky minerals, clove and marzipan. Sappy and thick, with the brisk lemon and lime fruit element currently dominated by soil-driven…