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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Les Dames de Montrose has a very strange, very mousy nose that obscures all sense of fruit and terroir expression. The palate is simple and weak, the nose so off-putting that I had to wash out my mouth afterwards. This must be an errant bottle given several others that I have tasted in…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Montrose is without question one of the standout wines of the vintage. Black cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and lavender are some of the many aromas and flavors that open up in the glass. But the 2014 is a much deeper wine than just a bunch of descriptors can conjure. In 2014, Montrose is…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Montrose has an engaging and complex bouquet with black fruit, a pencil box, pressed violet and warm earth scents, gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with excellent tannins that frame the mineral-rich black fruit (in fact, this is one of the most mineral-laden 2014 Left Banks I tasted.) The oak is…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Montrose has an attractive bouquet, mainly red fruit, cedar and undergrowth, relatively fresh with satisfying “attack”. Plenty of energy here. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit, fine depth and a keen line of acidity with a sense of completeness and harmony on the finish. This has great promise. Excellent. Tasted blind…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2000 Cos d’Estournel, which never quite grabbed me from barrel, is maturing nicely in bottle. As it approaches two decades, it continues to offer an intense, almost ambitious bouquet with blackberry, hints of dark chocolate, tobacco and scorched earth. Both vigor and delineation is present here. The palate is medium-bodied rather than full-bodied these…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a slight mustiness on the nose at first, clarifying to a degree with aeration. Light peppermint scents emerge and perhaps slightly detract from its terroir. There’s more yellow fruit here. The palate is well-balanced with a tangy opening, fresh and vibrant. This is a livewire Les Pucelles…