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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Petrus was picked September 16–29. The bouquet is warm and enveloping, certainly a richer aromatic style for Petrus, with light floral touches and nice focus. The palate is medium-bodied and lightly spiced, displaying fine tannins, sufficient tension given the alcohol level, and a dash of white pepper and clove. The velvety texture is…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2004 Cristal is nuanced and classy right out of the gate. Hints of lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine oil, spice and chamomile are all suggestive of a Champagne that has arrived at its first inflection point of early maturity. The interplay of slightly more mature notes with a good deal of freshness makes for an…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2004 Cristal is nuanced and classy right out of the gate. Hints of lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine oil, spice and chamomile are all suggestive of a Champagne that has arrived at its first inflection point of early maturity. The interplay of slightly more mature notes with a good deal of freshness makes for an…

2014 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: A Dark Horse Emerges (Jan 2025)

The 2014 Insignia is in the zone today. Dark and expansive, it is a glorious wine. The 2014 shows the richer style of the year, along with the first signs of aromatic maturity. Espresso, leather, blueberry jam, cedar and tobacco all take shape in the glass. It's an ideal wine for drinking now and over…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru is consistent with my previous review (even though this bottle had been opened two days earlier). Baking powder, mandarin, yellow fruit and albumen notes on the nose are all very well defined. The palate is nicely balanced with a keen spine of acidity. It’s tangy towards the marmalade-tinged…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru is clean and precise on the nose – detailed crushed stone/limestone aromas intermingle with yellow plum, apple blossom and a touch of quince. The palate is very energetic and nervous on the entry, sporting the same reduction that I found on the 2019, though time will reveal the…