Archives: Product Reviews

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Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1986 Batailley is a vintage that has never really endeared itself, at least to this writer. The nose is earthy and very austere, evoking images of a dusty attic in an old stately home. The palate is medium-bodied and mature with dry tannins, lacking the depth of fruit to offset the austere nature of…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Au Bout du Monde comes from vines that are between 5- and 12-years-old. It has a fragrant nose with Nashi pear and Granny Smith apple, just a touch of wild fennel in the background. The palate is well balanced with sour lemon on the entry, not quite as creamy…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes has a very attractive bouquet that really translates the terroir. You can smell the limestone soils, a touch of shucked oyster shell coming through with time, punching through the light veil of reduction. The palate is well-balanced, with good concentration on the entry. There’s impressive weight, notes of orange pith…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes, a blend of four parcels, has a fragrant nose of wild peach and light Granny Smiths, the malic element indicative of its Puligny leaning origin. The palate is well balanced with fine depth, a little more viscous and spicy in texture, fine extract here with a pleasing long finish. This…

2014 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: A Dark Horse Emerges (Jan 2025)

The 2014 Harlan Estate is a gorgeous wine that portends the more linear, vibrant style that has become the norm here in recent years. Red cherry, plum, mocha, graphite, lavender and rose petal unfurl in the glass. There's a bit of oak tannin that's not really an issue, but it does stand out next to…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 1993 Lafleur is perhaps my least favourite from the difficult early ’90s. This is rather rustic and slightly vegetal on the nose, perhaps from some Cabernet Franc that did not achieve phenolic ripeness. Medium-bodied with stocky and slightly abrasive tannins, this now shows a bit of astringency on the finish. I have fonder memories…