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2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

Brilliant ruby-red. A fragrant nose evokes ripe red and dark berries, musky flowers, licorice and white pepper, and a smoky mineral overtone adds vivacity. Juicy and concentrated in the mouth, offering gently sweet cherry, cassis and floral pastille flavors that spread out steadily on the back half. Closes chewy, sweet and very long, with building…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Village has a simple green apple and pear scented nose. The palate is balanced with moderate weight, though it is missing a bit of flair and tension on the finish.

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru shows some reduction on the nose (a common trait amongst the flight of Cazetiers) but there is decent, quite intense red fruit underneath, waiting to blossom. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth, plush veneer. Quite oaky at the moment and yet there is sufficient fruit to soak…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Serious medium ruby. Very ripe aromas of cassis, minerals and licorice. Ripe and thick on entry, then concentrated but rather backward in the mid-palate, with a firm mineral spine and sound acids giving lift and shape to the fully ripe dark fruit and licorice flavors. This builds impressively on the back end, finishing with serious…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(an 83/17 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot, from 45-year-old vines; 50% new oak; 38 hl/ha) Deep, bright ruby-red. Dense, youthfully closed nose of cassis, spicy violet and graphite is quite Pauillac-like-as opposed to Gloria’s (from the same owner) more typical Saint-Julien aromas. Chewy, brooding and deep, with concentrated cassis, menthol and mineral flavors framed…

Vinous Table: Koumoto, Tokyo, Japan (Apr 2024)

The 2008 d’Armailhac is one of my favorite wines from this period. The nose bursts with freshly picked blackberry, rolled tobacco and just a touch of brine, all well-defined and unashamedly classic in style, perhaps too austere for some. The palate is elegant and poised, with plenty of black fruit in the context of the…