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It Doesn’t Have To Be Rocket Science (Sep 2011)

Medium red-ruby. High-pitched aromas of licorice, bitter chocolate, wild herbs, spices and graphite minerality. Floral and juicy in the mouth, with excellent energy and definition to the flavors of red berries and cherry complicated by licorice and pepper. Perfumed, juicy, stylish claret with lovely fruit intensity and modest weight. Finishes with broad, palate-dusting tannins and…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright yellow. Very ripe aromas of lemon oil, grilled nuts, toasted bread and brown spices. Fat, rich and very ripe, with mineral and spice flavors accented by lemon zest, lime and lavender. This initially struck me as weightier and less classic than the 2015, but the wine’s strong spine of stony acidity gives it terrific…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Alter Ego de Palmer has a clean and fresh bouquet with blackberry, boysenberry, melted tar and dried rose petal aromas that gradually unfurl with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannin that lends this an austere personality, although it feels fairly well balanced and it has an easygoing finish that means…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

(the crop level here was freakishly low in 2012 owing to a hailstorm on July 4): Good deep red. Very dark, medicinal aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice and black pepper. Broad and fine-grained but powerful and youthfully closed, with its acids and tannins currently clashing on the back. In a distinctly tough style, finishing with…

Vinous Table: Arpège, Paris, France (Nov 2018)

Last but not least, the still much-too-young 2012 Jean-Frédéric Mugnier Nuit-Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale, from one of my favorite Burgundy producers, proves just the right match for the rack of pork, offering flinty and smoky nuances to the sweet red and black cherry fruit. Made from atypically low yields due to a summer hailstorm,…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2012 Nuits St. Georges Clos de la Maréchale marks a pretty significant stylistic shift in this tasting, but, then again, the Clos de la Maréchale suffered through a brutal hailstorm in July that lowered the crop dramatically. A core of dark red/black stone fruits, spices, mocha and leather opens up nicely, but the effect…