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2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Lafon-Rochet comes across as diluted and lacking depth, both on its own and also relative to the wines made in Saint-Estèphe more broadly in 2014. While certainly a solid, well-made wine, the 2014 is far less impressive from bottle than it was from barrel.

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Lafon-Rochet is more concentrated on the nose than the Pagodes de Cos that precedes it: blackberry briar and melted tar, gaining delineation with aeration. The oak is well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied, with sapid black fruit and iodine, and there is a noticeable marine influence towards the finish. Moderate length. Drink now…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Ruby-red. Sexy aromas and flavors of black- and redcurrant, menthol, licorice and nutty oak, lifted by a violet topnote. Supple, classically dry and quite concentrated, with juicy acidity giving cut to the flavors and extending the finish. A sound tannic spine should ensure at least two decades of development in bottle for this very suave…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(56% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 4% cabernet franc; 3.74 pH; 13.3% alcohol): Dark red with an amber rim. Rather subdued aromas of red fruits, earth and coffee. Enters the bright and floral, then showcases darker flavors of black plum, underbrush and graphite. Finishes moderately long, with slightly drying tannins and modest complexity. I find…

In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013 (Mar 2020)

The 1995 Branaire-Ducru has a generous bouquet that might be a tad riper than the 1996 with blackberry, dark plum, a touch of sage and tobacco all with fine delineation. The palate is more forward than the 1996, a little ripe but I prefer the structure on the 1995. A subtle saline touch on the…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good medium red-ruby color. Less expressive but lively aromas of blue fruits and brown spices, plus a hint of confiture Not as ripe or fleshy as the ’96, but the dark berry and licorice flavors are currently rather tightly wrapped and unforthcoming. Finishes with substantial dusty (oak?) tannins that betray a slight astringency. Perhaps still…