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Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked on 23 and 24 August, the first fruit to be picked. Yields are 31.7hL/ha. It has a very perfumed bouquet, with more intensity than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, but I wonder whether it matches it for complexity? There is a lovely background ember scent with Earl Grey loitering in the…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy (Mar 2023)

The 2020 Corton Grand Cru is a dark, explosive wine. Swaths of incisive tannin wrap around a core of black fruit, lavender, mocha and dried herbs. This is an especially virile, somber Corton that will require cellaring. I expect the 2020 will always remain quite tannic and assertive in its bearing. As always, the Corton…

Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Corton Grand Cru is the usual blend from Clos du Roi (Bressandes and Les Renardes leased from the Prince de Mérode family), and it was picked on 26 August at 24.6hL/ha. This is focused and a little backward on the nose; it needs a little encouragement from the glass. It rewards patience with…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Petrus is delicate, pretty and understated, just as it was en primeur. Crushed red berry fruit, mint, lavender and rose petal are all finely knit in a Petrus that is built more on delicacy than power. Silky tannins and mid-weight structure add to an impression of understated finesse. The 2021 is a beautifully…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Pétrus, which was bottled last June, as usual takes a few swirls of the glass to really settle into its groove. Olivier Berrouet said that he did not try to push this wine, decreasing the percentage of new oak and shortening the time in barrel by a couple of months. It eventually offers…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Pétrus was picked from September 30 until October 9 and aged in the usual 50% new oak. It has a completely different aromatic profile compared to the previous vintages, a return to the Petrus that I know at this stage. It made me think of the 2008, possibly the 2014: cool and linear,…