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Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked on 30 August and 1 September at 28.2hL/ha. The floral aspect of the vineyard is nicely accentuated on the nose. There’s a mélange of red and black fruit, a slight creaminess coming through with time and then this ebbs to offer light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Mission Haut-Brion is beautiful and expansive from the first taste. Dark cherry, mocha, herbs, licorice, rose petal and mint open effortlessly. All the elements are so well balanced. Although the 2018 is quite easy to appreciate at this stage, it also has terrific energy and more than enough verve to develop positively…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Mission Haut-Brion was double decanted and assessed after two hours, and the over the following 24 hours compared directly with – what else? – Haut-Brion. They were initially poured blind. This has retained a very perfumed and hedonistic bouquet of black fruit and pressed violets, and less of the graphite that I…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Margaux is an infant. Today, the tannins are unusually searing, but then again, the 2018 is a wine in which all the elements are dialed up to the maximum. Time in the glass releases the fruit, revealing a luxurious, opulent Château Margaux built for the cellar. Cedar, tobacco, dried flowers and mint develop…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Château Margaux was observed over a period of 24 hours. I used the word "luxurious" to describe the nose when I encountered this First Growth from barrel, and it’s still apt to use now the wine is in bottle. It just blossoms over time, revealing gorgeous blackberry, raspberry, crushed violet and peony, and…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion is an infant, but its balance and potential are both amply evident. Rich and deep in the glass, the 2018 opens to reveal tremendous complexity and nuance, qualities that only grow with time. The 2018 is not a huge Haut-Brion, nor is it massively endowed, but it is so elegant and classy….