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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

Winemaker Eric Kohler told me that the 1985 Lafite-Rothschild suffered blockage due to summer heat. This ex-château bottle has a lovely nose with melted dark chocolate, underbrush, cedar and allspice mixed into the mature red fruit, just a tiny bit sauvage. The palate is medium-bodied and quite savoury on the mid-palate, with supple tannins, dried…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Ruby-red with a pale rim. Initially closed nose opens slowly with aeration to offer delicate blackcurrant and mineral aromas complicated by a touch of field herbs. Then richer and deeper on the palate, with flinty blackcurrant, raspberry and herbal flavors carrying nicely through the aftertaste. The chewy, peppery tannins have smoothed out nicely with age….

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good deep red-ruby. Somewhat more evolved aromas of redcurrant, roasted coffee and smoked meat. Silky and lush in the mouth, but with less intensity and charm than the ’96. Seems a bit monolithic today. Tannins come across as slightly dry after the ’96.

On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2010 Sassicaia is just beginning to show the first signs of aromatic development. Sweet tobacco, mint, pine, dried cherries and licorice open up in the glass, but only with great reluctance. The 2010 remains a wine of striking precision and nuance, but it also has an element of classical austerity that is especially apparent…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Dark purple-ruby with inky highlights. Blackberry and cedar aromas pick up a pretty floral note with air. Rich, ripe and creamy, this very smooth wine offers black fruit, cedar and spicy oak flavors of moderate concentration and complexity. Well-made but doesn’t quite come alive today. Finishes with red berry and floral nuances, a trace of…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, deep ruby. Slightly porty yet fresh on the hugely ripe nose, offering scents of medicinal cherry, minerals, licorice and roasted meat. Plush, seamless and wonderfully deep, with sexy sweetness leavening by strong minerality. One of the fullest and most mouthfilling wines of this fleshy vintage. Not hugely complex–in fact a bit youthfully monolithic today–but…