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Going Underground: Clos Fourtet 1989-2019 (May 2025)

The 2009 Clos Fourtet was picked between September 28 and October 13 at 34 hl/ha. It offers quite precocious red berry fruit on the nose, hints of kirsch and marmalade, attractively balanced with a background figgy aroma. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and a silver line of acidity. Perhaps there is…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Clarence Haut-Brion offers a dab of cough candy on the nose, with red fruit, kirsch and plum upfront. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and it coheres nicely in the glass. A touch of white pepper emerges toward the satisfyingly long finish. This is worth seeking out. Tasted blind at the 2015…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion does not have the joie-de-vivre of the La Chapelle de la Mission. It's more austere and tertiary on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, good weight and poise, a keen line of acidity and a precise finish. This is worth seeking out. Tasted at the 2015…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a beautifully defined bouquet of extremely pure brambly red fruit, and the oak is very well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine structure and well-judged acidity. Though this is initially backward on the finish, it opens nicely in the glass. Whether it is long-term is…

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Monvigliero is such a classy wine. Light on its feet and beautifully perfumed, the Monvigliero is superb. The whole clusters are very nicely integrated. Rose petal, mint, sage and bright red berry fruit all run through this supremely gracious, deceptively mid-weight wine. It will almost certainly gain in volume over the coming…

Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States (Jun 2025)

Clear with green tints in the glass, the 1996 Cuvée S has developed nicely in recent years, losing some aromatic green apple traits and evolving subtle, creamy scents, even with a suggestion of chamomile in the background. The palate has scintillating balance—real penetration and energy, revivifying the senses with its crisp and chiselled finish. It…