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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Reserve de la Comtesse has a more evolved bouquet with red berry fruit, dried blood and mocha scents, a touch of wild mint emerging with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with softer tannins than its peers, suggesting it is fully mature. It has a lovely smooth, slightly feral finish that…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Reserve de La Comtesse is a delicious second wine. Soft, open-knit and caressing, the 2014 offers striking textural depth to balance its dark red/purplish fruit. Spice, tobacco, menthol and licorice wrap around the juicy, super-expressive finish. A burst of aromatic freshness gives the wine its sense of proportion. The Reserve de La Comtesse…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Lafite-Rothschild is one of my favorite vintages of the decade, and this bottle, served blind, replicates its showing at their 150th anniversary vertical. However, at first, it feels a little disjointed on the nose, but it coheres in the glass, offering lovely blackberry fruit, hints of pain d’épices, black truffle and meat juices….

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Medium red. Blacker fruits on the nose, lifted by violet and mineral nuances. A step beyond the Echezeaux in sweetness, texture and power. Fuller and more complex, with sappy dark berries complicated by leather and minerals. Finishes with round, sweet tannins and excellent length.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Pichon Baron was tasted against the 1995 and is a far superior vintage. Director Christian Seely commented that there was about half the volume in this vintage due to selection. This has a mineral-driven bouquet with layered black fruit, wild mint and light graphite scents giving way to touches of black truffle. The…