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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has an austere nose that demands coaxing from the glass; struck flint and sea spray scents, cool, calm and collected. The palate is taut on the entry, then fans out with glee, notes of dessicated orange peel, white peach and tangerine, a lovely bitterness that counterbalances the concentration on…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru has a more oaky nose than its peers, though it is well-defined and simpatico with the fruit. The palate is well balanced with orange rind and touches of marmalade, a little Chassagne-like in style, maybe more Côte d’Or than Chablis? Still, I like the tangy spiciness on the aftertaste….

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru is airy and weightless in feel. A wine that speaks in hushed tones, the Butteaux is marked by soaring aromatics, vertical lift and a decidedly ethereal personality. Crushed rocks, lime, white pepper and chalk give the Butteaux its striking upper register that is very nicely complemented by saline underpinnings…

Close to the Edge: Chablis 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a touch more tropical fruit on the nose compared to the Les Butteaux, offering faint passion fruit, white peach and apricot scents with aeration. Lovely definition. The palate is well balanced with a slight waxiness on the entry, and a little pithy in style. Hints of…

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is bright and finely cut, with tremendous energy, as the best wines from this site tend to be. Citrus peel, crushed rocks mint and white pepper add striking layers of nuance and tension. The 2018 is going to need at least a handful of years to enter…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Salon is absolutely gorgeous. It offers a beguiling mix of radiance and energy that seems to capture a little bit of elements of some of its older siblings. The expression of fruit is radiant and quite overt, but without reaching the tropical exuberance of the 2006. In shape, the 2012 recalls the mid-weight…