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Oregon Pinot Noir: The Exceptional 2014s and Often Surprising 2013s (Dec 2016)

Limpid ruby-red. Smoke-accented aromas of fresh red and dark berries, licorice, pungent flowers and vanilla take on a hint of cola with air. Spicy and expansive on the palate, offering intense raspberry liqueur, spicecake and mocha flavors that show excellent depth and building sweetness. Smooth, harmonious tannins give shape to a strikingly long, red-fruit-dominated finish…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

A week after tasting it from bottle, I re-tasted the 1985 Lafite-Rothschild from imperial. This has greater purity on the nose, perhaps less sauvage with vivacious red fruit, though cedar and allspice traits still come through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with those same pliant tannins that lend this First Growth such fluidity. This…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

Winemaker Eric Kohler told me that the 1985 Lafite-Rothschild suffered blockage due to summer heat. This ex-château bottle has a lovely nose with melted dark chocolate, underbrush, cedar and allspice mixed into the mature red fruit, just a tiny bit sauvage. The palate is medium-bodied and quite savoury on the mid-palate, with supple tannins, dried…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby-red. Black- and redcurrants and smoke on the nose; less oak-spicy today than the ’96. Silky and harmonious but currently rather withdrawn. Not quite as sweet as the ’96. Here the substantial toothcoating tannins come across as somewhat tougher, but there enough sheer extract for balance. Interestingly, this backward, rather powerful wine suggests the…

Vinous Table: Restaurant La Grande Georgette, Champagne, France (Apr 2025)

I have been fortunate to taste and drink the 2015 La Tâche on multiple occasions, and it has never been anything less than profound. Bright and beautifully focused with tremendous purity of fruit, the 2015 is so dynamic, so compelling. Is it ready to drink? Not for readers who enjoy fully mature Burgundies. But there…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1999 Latour has a dark garnet color with little aging on the rim. The nose is closed initially and demands coaxing, eventually revealing blackberry, cedar and light pencil-shaving aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, displaying some secondary notes of clove, white pepper and a distinct earthiness that comes through on the finish….