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2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion is aromatic, vibrant and fresh, but it has plenty of stuffing as well. Dried herbs, menthol, licorice, tobacco and cedar add pretty savory notes. Pliant, lifted and vibrant in feel, La Chappelle is an absolutely stellar second wine.

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion offers crunchy blackberry fruit on the nose, better defined than I found it out of barrel. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry thanks to a fine bead of acidity, subtle tertiary notes infusing the black fruit with veins of black olive and a discrete…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon remains one of the all-time greats here. No longer a young Champagne, the 2008 has begun moving into its first plateau of maturity. Baked apple tart, citrus confit, marzipan and lightly honeyed overtones are front and center. A touch of reduction—always present in 2008—adds freshness and energy.

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

I thought the 2012s would be a good place to start this lunch, as the wines have always been quite open and seductive. That is very much the case today. The 2012 Cristal is quite delicate and floral, with hints of pear and white flowers that add considerable allure. This is a young Cristal still…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red. Rather unforthcoming nose hints at redcurrant and cedar, along with a faint herbaceousness. Strong in extract and high in acidity, but today the wine flesh and fruit are dominated by its structure and grip. A marginally disappointing showing for Lafite, in which herbaceous hints and lack of flesh give the wine a slightly…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

A week after tasting it from bottle, I re-tasted the 1985 Lafite-Rothschild from imperial. This has greater purity on the nose, perhaps less sauvage with vivacious red fruit, though cedar and allspice traits still come through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with those same pliant tannins that lend this First Growth such fluidity. This…