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2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Dominus remains a huge, dense wine. A blast of scorched earth, tobacco, incense, dried herbs, licorice, black fruit and gravel saturates the palate. Brawny and explosive, the 2013 is still very young. It can’t possibly be described as elegant but rather virile, somber and dark. All that said, the 2013 is not ready…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Dominus remains a huge, dense wine. A blast of scorched earth, tobacco, incense, dried herbs, licorice, black fruit and gravel saturates the palate. Brawny and explosive, the 2013 is still very young. It can’t possibly be described as elegant but rather virile, somber and dark. All that said, the 2013 is not ready…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Clarence de Haut-Brion has a refined and elegant bouquet with pure red fruit, undergrowth, clove and leather, perhaps just a little brettanomyces becoming more obvious with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, rounded in texture with truffle and leather infused red fruit. There is fine grip on the finish and it…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Dark ruby-red. Blackcurrant, cedar and minerals on the forward nose. Fresh, sweet and smooth on entry, then slightly austere in the middle, with rich black fruit and herb flavors joined by an emerging hint of underbrush. The finish is chewy and moderately persistent. Though Le Clarence has lately been a rather austere wine when young,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 46% merlot, 39% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 14% alcohol; pH 3.88; 77 IPT) Dark ruby-red. Reticent, brooding nose hints at red cherry, blackcurrant, violet, minerals and cedar. Extremely fine-grained and smooth, with harmonious acidity giving laser-like precision to the red fruit and mineral flavors. Completely devoid of…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The limits of the vintage are apparent in the 2011 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, which lacks the depth and structure that are typical of this side. Dried flowers, iron and red stone fruits emerge, but there is only modest depth in the glass. This is a pretty, nuanced, mid-weight Burgundy, but not especially typical of…