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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(100% merlot; from a crop level of 34 hectoliters per hectare; pH 3.70; 13.5% alcohol; harvested on September 22 and 25) Deep ruby-red. Perfumed, expressive aromas of cassis, blackberry liqueur and minerals lack the sheer decadent opulence of some recent vintages. Then wonderfully clean and precise, with flavors of blackberry and plum complicated by hints…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Le Pin has an attractive bouquet with scents of black cherries, truffle, orange rind and hints of pain d’épices developing. I appreciate the definition here, the sense of control, the terroir coming through as much as the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannin, a fine bead of acidity, spicier than…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Le Pin is a vintage that has been a bit variable over the years. Now, at ten years old, it has a delightful raspberry- and strawberry-scented bouquet. However, as I asserted before, this is not the most complex showing that Jacques Thienpont has overseen, something that is exposed by juxtaposition against its peers….

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Le Pin never clicks into gear on the nose. There are hints of red berry fruit, sage and a touch of wild mint but they need to coalesce more. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth and harmonious entry, though the vanillary oak is too vocal, which slightly curtails the finish. Tasted blind…

Checking in on the 1999 Barbarescos (Aug 2014)

Smoke, tar, roses, incense are some of the nuances that emerge as the1999 Costa Russi unfurls in the glass. A blast of dark black fruit follows as this muscular wine opens up in the glass. Costa Russi is often a much softer wine, but in 2009 it is decidedly brooding and intense. Here, too, the…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Deep red-ruby. Reticent aromas of dark fruits, minerals and bitter chocolate. Vibrant, delineated and penetrating, with intense dark berry flavors. Finishes very long and lively, with a firm tannic spine and excellent thrust and grip.