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White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Musky, complex aromas of citrus peel, stone and hazelnut. Juicy, pure and light on its feet, with pronounced minerality giving the wine a distinctly high pitch. Finishes with noteworthy persistence. A terrible hailstorm on the north side of the village cut yields but did not affect quality, said Roulot, as the affected grapes dried out…

2024 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Sassicaia is one of the best young Sassicaias I can remember tasting, certainly on par with anything in recent memory. The preference here is picking on the earlier side relative to many neighboring properties, which is one of the reasons Sassicaia is always a wine of refinement more than opulence. At the same…

2015 Barolo – The Late Releases (Nov 2019)

The 2014 Barolo Monprivato is one of the finest Barolos I have tasted from the Mascarello family in a number of years. That is all the more remarkable considering a challenging growing season in which conditions were so tough that Mauro Mascarello did not want to show me his vineyard that summer. In the glass,…

Close to the Edge: Chablis 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Moutonne Monopole Grand Cru comprises 12,633 bottles this year (minus the one I am tasting here). It has a delineated, crushed stone and lightly sea-influenced bouquet that gains intensity with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, elegant and poised, and the finest finish among the domaine’s…

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis La Moutonne Monopole Grand Cru is a powerful, savory wine. Of all the 2018s, is one of the most reticent, inward wines in this range. It will need time to soften the hard tannins in this powerful, tightly wound wine. It will be interesting to see if it develops more nuance in…

2015 Brunello: The Vintage We Have Been Waiting For? (Apr 2020)

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a bouquet that is dark and captivating, reminding me of picking ripe strawberries right off the vine, as its pretty, dark red fruits mingle with earth tones and hints of floral stems, then spiced orange and sweet minerality slowly develope in the glass. On the palate, it floods…