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Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2006 Latour shows some reduction on the nose, although it soon blows away to reveal pencil-shaving infused black fruit, wild hedgerow and light cassis aromas. The palate offers up a mixture of red and black fruit. This has a firm grip with an uncompromising backbone. Dense yet refined, it is refreshingly saline toward the…

2008 Brunello di Montalcino: A Consumer’s Vintage (Sep 2013)

The estate’s 2007 Brunello di Montalcino has developed beautifully over the last year. Freshly cut flowers, dark raspberries, spices and mint all take shape in a 2007 that impresses for its freshness and pure energy. Sweet roses and violets linger on the finish. I imagine the 2007 will enjoy a very broad drinking window. Today…

Brunello di Montalcino 2007 and 2006 Riserva (Jul 2012)

Medium red. Reticent nose hints at red berries, marzipan and nutty oak. Fine-grained, fleshy and highly concentrated, without any undue impression of weight. Lovely sappy sweetness accentuates the wine’s inner-mouth perfume. Really builds on the very long, even, sweetly tannic back end, which stains the palate with red fruits, flowers and complex soil tones. This…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Extra Brut Assemblage captures all of the exuberance of the vintage. Ample and creamy, the Assemblage is alluring right out of the gate. Kirsch, dried flowers, mint, baked pastry and a kiss of oak build as this open-knit Champagne shows off its considerable charm. Disgorged: March, 2020.

The Best of Northern Italy (Feb 2011)

Dal Forno should really change the name of his 2005 Valpolicella Superiore. This is really an Amarone for all practical intents and purposes, since 2002 made entirely from fruit that has been dried, albeit for less time than that legally required for Amarone. Firm, sturdy tannins frame blackberries, blueberries, violets and new leather in the…

The Red Wines of Northeast Italy (Mar 2012)

Dark ruby. Deep aromas of smoky redcurrant, cooked plum, underbrush, herbs and cocoa. Enters the mouth creamy and nicely concentrated, with black pepper, spice and herb notes adding lift to the red fruit and chocolate flavors. A little chunky and less complex than usual for Dal Forno owing to the poor vintage but still shows…