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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 La Mission Haut-Brion has a lovely nose with blackberry, scorched earth, sage and light truffle scents, with a touch of antique mahogany bureau. There’s fine delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with “thick” tannins that exert a fine grip. The 2004 is spicy with black pepper and light truffle notes. There’s just a…

1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Expressive aromas of cassis, redcurrant, truffle, espresso and spicy oak. Dense, sweet and oaky, with lovely gentle texture and nicely buffered tannins. Stylish rather than powerful, and already displaying a lot of personality. This wine is usually overshadowed by those that follow in this cellar, but it’s a lovely Echezeaux.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Latour comes from a period where the First Growth was not firing on all cylinders. This offers black fruit laced with cedar and damp loamy scents, tertiary and a little smoky in style. The palate is well balanced though it does not deliver the complexity of a top Latour. There is gentle grip…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not encountered for several years. This has an intense nose with dark berry fruit, wild mint, iris flower and just a touch of garrigues. Complex and entrancing. The palate is medium-bodied with the presence and gravitas you expect from a First Growth. Very harmonious with a…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(14.5% alcohol; 100% merlot; 50% new oak) Good, fully saturated ruby. Complex, brooding nose offers aromas of ripe plum, blackberry jam, violet, cocoa syrup and Oriental spices; though deep and opulent, the nose is much less forward and exotic than either the 2008 or 2009. The palate offers outstanding intensity to the blackcurrant, cocoa and…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Petrus has a tough job following on from Le Pin in the sense that it is habitually more introspective, less flamboyant than its Pomerol counterpart. The bouquet is mercurial, initially quite rich and forward but then backing down, becoming more discreet with loam-tinged red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, plenty…