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Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2005 Brane-Cantenac, which was picked September 17 to October 10, has a suave, elegant bouquet of blackberry, cedar, gravel and tobacco scents, certainly showing more intensity and energy than any of the last five vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine and surprisingly supple tannins that are finally beginning to soften. I love the…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good bright red-ruby. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, dark chocolate and sexy oak. Moderately sweet, medium-bodied and vinous, with ripe acidity and a floral element providing mid-palate lift. Still a bit medicinal and unevolved, but this has the serious structure to develop slowly and well in bottle. Finishes long and firm.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good medium, bright red. Restrained aromas of medicinal cherry, leather and licorice. Sweet and fairly deep, with brooding, slightly coarse flavors of dark raspberry and blueberry. Finishes with dusty, broad tannins and a slight greenness.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Branaire Ducru has a cohesive bouquet with blackberry, boysenberry, iris flower and cedar scents plus a light touch of pencil shavings in the background. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine structure, good density (in an era when that was not always the case apropos this estate) and gentle grip…

Lower Your Sails Again: Beychevelle 1905-2015 (Jan 2025)

The 2005 Beychevelle is improving in bottle. Quite intense on the nose, it offers slightly darker fruit than previous bottles, with cedar and a touch of espresso, though there is still a little rusticity. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a rich, slightly muscular entry, a smear of dark chocolate and a structured, grippy finish….

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Troplong Mondot is fabulous. It offers up a rush of dark red-toned fruit, crushed rocks, leather, menthol, cedar and blood orange. As always, Troplong Mondot is marked by a strong presence of Cabernet Sauvignon that seems to add brooding intensity, muscle and power. I tasted it three times. A bottle given a brief…