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2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac is every bit as impressive as it was en primeur. What a wine. Fresh, brisk and wonderfully vibrant in the glass, the 2022 soars with striking Cabernet Sauvignon aromatics. Graphite, menthol, sage, mint, licorice, dried flowers and a kiss of well-judged oak all meld together in the glass. Great wine is the…

You’re Unbelievable: Bordeaux 2022 (May 2023)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac, as usual, is a wine that you must sit and contemplate before words gush forth. It was picked from 7 September to 10 October (their tiny plot of Carmenère) at 31.5hL/ha and contains 16% vin de presse from the Cabernet Sauvignon. It is well-defined and fresh, a very subtle Margaux, precise with…

2022 Bordeaux En Primeur: Balance Imbalance (May 2023)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac is captivating. Aromatic, savory and layered, the 2022 is so alluring from the outset. The natural radiance of the year is very much on display, and yet there is nothing that is overdone about the 2022. Hints of blood orange, spice, rose petal and minerals open over time, offering stunning contrast to…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale, bright yellow. A note of meaty reduction to the aromas of crushed stone, white pepper and smoke. Densely packed, smooth and refined, showing lovely freshness and lift to its intense stone fruit and floral flavors. Finishes very long and suave, with an impression of fine-grained tannins and terrific lift.

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2020 Syrah Boekenhoutskloof is the first vintage under 14% alcohol. It utilizes 60% whole bunches with natural ferment in concrete vats and aged for 18 months mainly in Stockinger foudres. It has a cool but focused bouquet that gains intensity with aeration: blackcurrants, bilberry, pressed iris flower and a pinch of Provençal herbs. The…

South Australia, Victoria and a Bit Beyond (Sep 2022)

Opaque ruby. Oak-spiced cherry, blackberry and mocha aromas, along with coconut, licorice and cracked pepper accents. Deep and weighty on the palate, offering intense black and blue fruit, mocha and oak spice flavors that show an appealing sweetness but are slow to open. In a distinctly powerful style, delivering youthfully chewy tannins and a long,…