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New Zealand’s Pellucid Wines: More Light Than Heat (May 2016)

(1993 was the first crop for these vines): Pale bright yellow. Sexy spices and perfumed yellow stone fruits, apple and pear on the nose. A step up in musky minerality and briskness from the Estate blend, showing superb energy and tactile lift. More spicy and savory than fruity or sweet. Serious rich but backward Chardonnay…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2008)

Inky purple. Alluring bouquet of blackberry and blueberry preserves, cherry-cola and vanillin oak spices. Broad, fleshy and deep, with sweet flavors of dark berries, floral pastille and vanilla beans. The rich fruit nicely absorbs the oak element on the long, velvety finish. Leaves a wide swath of creamy dark fruits and licorice in its wake….

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1981 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, poured from a half-bottle, has a bright hue with little signs of aging. Dark berry fruit aromas commingle with mahogany antique bureau and light estuarine scents on the nose, with just a faint hint of boot polish. The palate contains commendable fruit and surprisingly rounded texture, considering the vintage. Though the finish…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1990 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is a vintage that I drank regularly. It’s always backward and compelling. I used to wonder whether it would ever come around. It has. This has a mesmerizing bouquet with black fruit, graphite, licorice and violet aromas. It just ratchets up through the gears with aeration. The palate is surfeit with sapid…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 d’Yquem is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Just as alluring from bottle as it was from barrel, the 2015 is a wine that engages all of the senses, from the intellectual to the more hedonistic. Lilting notes of pineapple, mint, orange peel and white flowers grace the palate, but…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Yquem was poured from magnum. To be honest, it is almost identical to the bottle tasted three years earlier (although a wit would counter that it's “twice as nice”). It's probably too young to distinguish between the maturity of the two formats, but it has a gorgeous saffron-scented bouquet with hints of acacia…