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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Full red-ruby. Pure, subtly perfumed aromas of blackberry, spices and licorice. Dense but youthfully linear, showing lovely finesse of texture to its tight-grained flavors of dark fruits, spices and saline minerality lifted by violet. With its compact kernel of fruit, this is neither sweet nor easygoing today, but its precision and definition call to mind…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Full red-ruby. Knockout nose melds raspberry, flint, mocha and coffee; distinctly rocky. Big, rich and sweet, with very ripe red berry liqueur flavors framed by an edge of tannins and acids. Like the Echezeaux, this also shows some lower-toned earth and underbrush elements, but this one also has the ineffable mineral lift I crave. Almost…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Glass-staining purple. Explosive aromas of dark berries, fresh violet and anise, with a hint of smokiness in the background. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering deeply pitched, spice-tinged cassis and bitter cherry flavors accented by bitter herbs. Closes extremely long, with firm tannic grip and alluring sweetness, leaving a zesty mineral note behind. Showing…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon; 32 hl/ha; 14.5% alcohol; 65% new oak) Deep ruby-purple. Floral nose offers red cherry, plum, cinnamon and cloves beneath a healthy coating of sexy vanillin oak. Austere but not dry on entry, with plenty of lovely red berry, mint and tobacco flavors displaying amazing purity as…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Pavie has a sweet, candied bouquet with high-toned, glossy black cherry and crème de cassis fruit that rather betrays the exceptional terroir. The palate is very ripe and concentrated with intense black fruit, almost viscous in texture with a concentrated finish that just feels more like winemaking intent than terroir for me. I…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

(70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon): Saturated deep ruby. Sexy, nuanced nose combines black raspberry, graphite, mocha and flowers. Thick, sweet and powerfully concentrated; wonderfully rich, broad, seamless wine with fruit of steel. Flavors of kirsch, licorice and minerals saturate every square millimeter of the mouth. Huge, broad tannins will carry this…