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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 60/40 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; pH 3.82; 13.7% alcohol; a 65% selection) Ruby-purple. Knockout nose offers deep aromas of cassis, minerals, cedar, cocoa and coffee. Then very rich and creamy in the mouth, with luscious, extremely concentrated flavors of blackcurrant, blueberry, raspberry liqueur and cedar. Finishes pure and extremely long, with velvety…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a surprisingly understated bouquet that unfurls in the glass with perfumed, quite floral aromas of rose petal and violet that complement the red cherries, cranberry and wild strawberry. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, the Cabernet Franc component expressive with brown spice and ferrous notes infusing the fruit….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cheval Blanc has a rambunctious nose with copious red fruit, meat juices, sage and crushed stone aromas, ineffably complex. This is so refined, constantly mutating in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannin. There is a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of cassis, cardamom and allspice. Immense depth…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Flamboyant yet classy aromas and flavors of raspberry, mocha, coffee and herbs. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, but with great lift and perfume giving the wine outstanding inner-palate verve. Wonderfully rich and classically dry Cheval with noble tannins, strong mineral energy and great lingering aromatic character. Atypically full and approachable for young…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Marsannay Trois Terres Vieilles Vignes needs quite a bit of coaxing on the nose. Liquorice-tinged dark berry fruit mixed with white pepper. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, slightly chalky tannins, fresh and quite saline with an elegant finish. This Marsannay meliorates upon acquaintance and should repay cellaring over three or four years.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Marsannay Es Chezots has a lively, vibrant bouquet with pure Dorset plum and bilberry scents, light iris petal aromas. Very detailed. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiselled tannins, quite chalky in texture, perhaps a little compact but I feel this has something up its sleeve for later. Fournier’s spiciest Marsannay. Great potential.