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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Volnay Santenots 1er Cru comes from the younger vines, around 22-years old from the Clos des Santenots. This is completely de-stemmed. It has an attractive bouquet with violet and iris scents infusing the black cherry and cassis fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, gentle in terms of grip, not enormously complex…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

On the nose the 2018 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru has more concentration than Jobard’s Meursault-Blagny, with lightly honeyed fruit, yellow plum and a touch of yellow flowers. I admire the complexity here. The palate is well balanced with a bit of oak to be subsumed on the entry, fresh and lively, good…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru, which has been produced by Drouhin since 1928, comes from six separately aged parcels. Drouhin mentioned that quite a few barrels were deselected from this vineyard and blended into the Côte de Beaune Blanc. This possesses an intense bouquet with subtle scents of almond, praline and…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru is a little ponderous on the nose compared to Michel Bouzereau’s Genevrières. There’s some heavy reduction here, and it lacks freshness due to the alcohol level. The palate is sour on the entry, quite volatile and not as clean as I would like with a drying finish. It does…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru had not been racked and was sulfured the week prior to my visit. It has a crisp, well-defined bouquet, although I find the Meursault Charmes has a little more personality and terroir expression at the moment. The palate delivers a pleasant saline bite on the entry, and good depth…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Smith Haut Lafitte is a powerful wine. Huge, searing tannins dominate the balance. Readers will have to be exceedingly patient. With several hours of air the fruit finally starts to emerge. Blackberry, grilled herb, smoke, licorice and incense all take shape in the glass. The impression is of brooding, somber, unrestrained power. Sadly,…