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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good deep ruby-red. Superripe aromas of currant, smoke and coffee. Complex and expressive in the mouth, with lush but lively fruit and a sappy quality. Very pure, shapely wine with an attractive restrained sweetness and no shortage of depth. This largely avoids the jammy side of the vintage. Finishes with broad tannins and very good…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2003 Brane-Cantenac has never been the best vintage of recent years. Here, the wine is still smudged and earthy on the nose, displaying less aniseed than I have observed in the past. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, toffee-tinged red fruit and a rather monotonous finish that pales against other vintages. Drink soon….

A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)

The 2000 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 20 September and 3 October. Like many millennial wines there is impressive concentration on the nose but there is something just a bit aloof and charmless, unlike the 1998. The palate is medium-bodied with good body, rustic red fruit infused with tobacco, dried herbs and a touch of…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright medium ruby. Smoky aromas of black raspberry, roast coffee, meat and nutty oak. Silky and supple on entry, then lush and sweet in the middle, with expansive, slightly jammy plum, currant, chocolate and licorice flavors. Nicely structured and firm for a wine this rich and sweet, thanks to solid underlying acidity and substantial ripe,…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 10% petit verdot; 13.8% alcohol) Bright dark red. Knockout nose combines raspberry, violet, spicy oak, minerals and dried herbs. Wonderfully tangy and delineated, with excellent thrust and concentration to its blackberry and sweet spice flavors. Still, this comes across as a bit youthfully closed and hiding…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 La Lagune has a vigorous bouquet with blackberry, briary and tobacco aromas, quite feisty compared to its peers, then settling down and manifesting more red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. This builds nicely towards a cohesive, silky smooth finish with a pinch of white…