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Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 2000 Léoville-Poyferré was poured blind at Medlar restaurant, though it was pretty easy to single out. This bottle is slightly higher-toned than the previous, black fruit, melted tar and a touch of roasted chestnut, maybe displaying just a touch more Brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with good depth and concentration, white pepper and thyme…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Léoville Poyferré has a lovely bouquet of brambly red berry fruit, orange peel, sandalwood, ash and a touch of peppermint. Maybe there is just a tiny smidgen of brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied and approaching full maturity, with grainy tannins, meat juices, sage, thyme and light white peppery notes surfacing with aeration. There…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Suduiraut has a very well-defined bouquet of marmalade, honeysuckle, touches of kerosene and pine, all focused and vigorous. The palate is balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and vibrant, featuring Seville orange marmalade mixed with orange peel, peach and wild honey; it displays a little more delineation than I have noticed…

Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Medium yellow-gold. Flamboyantly ripe, complex nose combines pineapple, apricot, toffee, clove and vanilla. Hugely sweet and rich, with deep, powerful flavors of honey, marzipan and toffee. A major mouthful of wine, with great lingering sweetness. Today, this makes the Rieussec seem almost polite by comparison.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Climens is a good Barsac but not my favorite Climens. At 20 years old it has a rather punchy, attacking bouquet that is missing the composure of the best vintages. The palate is marked by a sharp thread of acidity that unbalances the wine overall, and it seems to run out of ideas…

1999 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2002)

($48.50) Pale color. Cool, perfumed aromas of lemon ice, licorice, and spicy, vanillin oak. Tightly wound, even lean, yet one senses the density of material beneath the wine new oak component. Very firmly built and stylish but a bit youthfully edgy today. Finishes with late notes of vanilla and honey.