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2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

Good full golden-yellow. Musky, very fresh aromas of crystallized citrus peel, minerals and toasted bread. The palate offers incredible sappy concentration and a saline aspect, not to mention a penetrating quality rare for this fruit-driven year. In fact, this begins almost light, then builds inexorably toward the back, finishing with a tactile impression of extract…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a stronger performer than many of its peers in this vintage. Extremely well-defined on the nose, this exudes a sense of classicism, black fruit mixed with loam, autumn leaves and a whiff of the nearby estuary. The palate is medium-bodied with black fruit laced with spices, marmalade and cedar, binding together…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Montrose is one of the bigger, richer wines of the vintage. Super-ripe black cherry, tar, smoke and leather find support in intense tannins that lurk beneath. Today, the tannins are incredibly imposing. The 2012 doesn’t have the sheer heft of the epic vintages, but it does have the potential to be one of…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(57% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, 5% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot): Deep ruby-red. Floral, mineral nose hints at fresh blackcurrant, but this sample seems tight and closed down currently. On the palate, somewhat strict and linear flavors of blackcurrant and wet stone are lifted by a repeating note of violet. The finish is long…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Montrose has a taut and focused bouquet with crisp blackberry, tobacco and light earthy scents on the nose. Fine vigour and class evident here. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins on the entry, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a nicely proportioned and focused finish. This is a solid, almost swarthy Montrose, though…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Lafleur has a bouquet that takes its time to unfurl in the glass, then renders you speechless. Mind-bogglingly intense black fruit, crushed stone and a hint of licorice display astonishing delineation, and blue fruit emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins. As is customary, this feels very strict and,…