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2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

I am not sure when the 2019 Lafleur is going to be ready to drink, but it is not going to be anytime soon. A huge, powerful wine, the 2019 Lafleur possesses tremendous intensity and energy, but less of the immediate charm of many recent vintages. All of its energy is focused inward. Hints of…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Lafleur has a bouquet that takes its time to unfurl in the glass, then renders you speechless. Mind-bogglingly intense black fruit, crushed stone and a hint of licorice display astonishing delineation, and blue fruit emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins. As is customary, this feels very strict and,…

The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is finessed in the glass, perfumed with nuances of violet and rose, as hints of fresh plum and dried sage evolve over time. This floods the palate with textures like pure silk, washing masses of savory red berries and spices across a balanced core of saline-tinged acidity. A tart…

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Bright saturated red. Deep, pure aromas of raspberry, licorice and minerals; a whiff of white pepper and aromatic herbs emerges with air. Sweet, dense, chewy and powerful, offering superb depth and nuance to the rich red cherry, licorice and potpourri flavors. Tactile, serious and extremely long on the fine-grained, lifted finish. Yet another great wine from Fuligni, and…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru comes from a long-term contract between the Drouhins and the owner. It has quite a strict bouquet of Granny Smith apples, hints of fennel and lemongrass lending complexity with time. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and quite saline in the mouth,…

Vinous Table: Repubblica di Perno, Monforte d’Alba, Italy (Mar 2018)

The 2000 Château Branaire Grand Cru Classé (now Branaire-Ducru, but back in 2000 still called just Branaire) showcases the greatness of Bordeaux. The Branaire is rich and ample in the style of the vintage, but with Branaire’s (and Saint Julien’s) natural grace, balance and charm keeping it from being over the top.