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Cellar Favorite: 2012 Château Latour (Apr 2020)

The 2012 Latour has a potent bouquet of blackberry, graphite and distinctive tertiary notes [instead of more marine scents observed four years earlier]. Initially, the palate is slightly disjointed on the entry and displays a subtle herbal quality, plus hints of pencil shavings. The 2012 demands a few minutes to really coalesce and achieve the…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Latour…wine of the vintage? It has to be a serious contender. In this blind taste-off between the five First Growths, its quality shines through. With exceptional delineation on the nose, it just oozes class with precise black fruit, crushed stone, mint and light sous-bois. The palate is perfectly balanced with a fine line…

2013 Barolo: The Late Releases (Oct 2017)

Borgogno’s 2009 Barolo Riserva is dark, dense and super-concentrated. Because of its almost shocking intensity, I would prefer to cellar the 2009 for at least a few years, which should allow some of the baby fat to melt away. Black cherry, smoke, incense and tobacco flesh out a decidedly imposing, brooding Riserva from Borgogno. As…

Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)

The 2023 Figeac is gorgeous. Seamless and vibrant, with captivating elegance, this is an absolute beauty. What I admire most is its exceptional balance. Everything is in the right place. Time in the glass brings out hints of gravel, dried herbs, licorice, tobacco and cedar that add dimension. Although it is early, Figeac is shaping…

The Dalmatian Vintage: Bordeaux 2023 (Apr 2024)

The 2023 Figeac was cropped at 45hL/ha from September 6 until October 5, one of the longest harvest periods ever. It matured in 100% new oak, as usual. My samples included the 5% vin de presse. This has a very perfumed bouquet: red fruit rather than black, iris flower rather than violet, light sous-bois and…

Bordeaux at the Crossroads: 2023 En Primeur (April 2024)

The 2023 La Conseillante is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine. Medium in body and silky, with exceptional balance, the 2023 impresses from start to finish. Crushed flowers, lavender, spice, mocha and tobacco are some of the many nuances that emerge over time. More than anything else, the 2023 impresses with its…