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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Léoville-Barton is one of the few Saint-Julien ’09s to suggest just a smidgen of brettanomyces on the nose, although frankly it does not detract from its allure, with lovely meat juice and brown spice aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, juicy and slightly chewier than its peers, well judged acidity with…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby-red. Red- and blackcurrant, licorice, chocolate mint and sexy oak tones on the nose. Dense, solidly built and youthfully backward, with strong acidity and a medicinal quality leavening the sweetness of this plush, seamless wine. Most impressive today on the very long finish, which features a firm spine of dusty tannins, hints of cedary…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Les Forts de Latour has a light minty bouquet, more red than black fruit, touches of orange peel and light pencil shaving scents. The palate is medium-bodied with good density, fine tannins, becoming increasingly precise towards the finish, graphite and black pepper lingering on the aftertaste. Wonderful breeding here, a step ahead of…

Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: Latest Releases (Apr 2018)

Though I tasted the 2012 Les Forts de Latour, a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, during en primeur back in 2013, this marks the first commercial release for this vintage. It boasts devilishly attractive pencil lead bouquet with blackberry, bilberry and a light sea spray influence. The palate is…

Dauvissat Chablis Les Clos: 1983-2015 (Nov 2019)

Pale silver-lemon color. Aromas of lemon ice and minerals complicated by nuances of flowers and almond. At once penetrating and tactile, with juicy, very dry flavors of wet stone, menthol and spices conveying a strong impression of saline minerality. Boasts lovely density and class–and balanced from the start even if it will unwind over the…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2015 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru puts in a deeply impressive showing. Perfumed and floral on the nose, this is pure and utterly seductive, with wonderful mineralité and precision, touches of incense emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with vivacious red berry fruit, real depth and dimension. It’s silky smooth to the point where you…