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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Château d’Yquem has a powerful and well defined bouquet, very pure with honey, barley sugar and quince. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity that cuts through the concentrated botrytised fruit. Very persistent and quite rich on the finish, this is decadent and rather gorgeous. Long-term. Tasted blind at…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Luminous golden yellow. Cool, pure aromas of white peach, honeyed mango, guava nectar, white flowers and saffron are complicated by elements of crushed stone and spicy lemony botrytis. Suave and intensely flavored, with mineral-spiced apple, mango, passion fruit and grapefruit flavors offering outstanding purity, precision, and depth. The brisk but harmonious acidity gives this great…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Yquem was picked over four tries from 6 September, the earliest for 125 years until 5 October. Slightly paler in colour compared to the 2001 alongside, it has a well defined and slightly Germanic bouquet with that petrol note still present, allied with peach and apricot, honeysuckle and desiccated orange peel. The palate…

Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

The 1990 Clos du Mesnil captures the warmth and opulence of the year, yet preserves fabulous minerality and freshness. It is a beautifully balanced, harmonious wine that delivers on so many levels. There is plenty here to satisfy both the intellectual and purely hedonistic senses. Layers of fruit build effortlessly to the seamless, glorious finish….

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Extremely fine mousse Deep, musky aromas of grilled nuts, ginger, earth and minerals. This would be almost painful in its concentration were it not for the wine’s extraordinarily fine-grained texture. Extremely powerful but wonderfully ripe, with thick, sappy flavors of hazelnut, minerals and baking spices, plus a hint of toffee. Endless nutty, yeasty finishing flavors…

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Limpid red. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes raspberry, cherry cola, potpourri and exotic spices, with a vanilla topnote and a smoky mineral flourish. Sweet and focused in the mouth, offering sappy red fruit, spicecake, mocha and rose pastille flavors that flesh out on the back half. Finishes very long and spicy, with a resonating floral…