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Big Love for Loire (Jul 2020)

From a parcel named after Philippe Vatan’s two daughters, and aged 20 months in old foudres. Dark red with garnet tints. Complex, deep nose of forest floor, spices, fallen leaves, burning leaves and plenty of blueberry and plum. On the palate, elegant and rich, offering juicy fruit, cherry and olive, framed by lean, straight tannins…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bourgogne Le Clos du Château has a tightly wound bouquet that needs a little more fruit intensity; it’s too Zen-like at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, moderate weight and a slightly attenuated finish that leaves me wanting a bit more.

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 La Gaffelière is a wine of total finesse. Much less obvious and overt than most Saint-Émilions in this vintage, La Gaffelière makes its case on harmony and grace above all else. Bright, lifted Cabernet Franc–infused aromatics give the 2015 striking freshness and aromatic presence. The flavors are bright and nuanced to the core,…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Clinet has a beautifully delineated bouquet, quite floral in style with rose petal and iris scents filtering through the red fruit. A second bottle is a little distant with more pronounced crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a fine bead of acidity, but those tannins tend to dominate the…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

A dramatic, sweeping Pomerol, the 2015 Clinet is ample, racy and voluptuous from the very first taste. Those qualities are going to make the 2015 nearly impossible to resist young. Readers who can wait will be rewarded with a racy, deeply layered Pomerol of the highest level. For now, the raciness of the dark red…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Pape Clément is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Now at 30 years of age, it has a deep core with a thin brick rim. The nose is classic in style with blackberry, cedar and sandalwood, just a touch of tobacco. This is very composed and refined, not powerful but…