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Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Troplong Mondot has a bold and assertive bouquet with blackberry and raspberry laced with dried rose petal and mineral notes, all beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a graphite seam on the entry suggesting this might be the Cabernet Sauvignon at Figeac. It feels very focused, structured and fresh, but there is…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Troplong Mondot is super-impressive. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, chocolate and dark spice notes meld together in this stunningly beautiful, opulent Saint-Émilion. Large-scale, ample and totally flamboyant in style, the 2014 is going to need time to fully come together, but it is striking even today. The blend is 90 % Merlot, 8 %…

Dive In: Cantenac Brown 1978-2018 (Oct 2022)

The 2016 Cantenac Brown seems to have grown aromatically since I last tasted it a few months ago. More complex than I remember, this offers a cornucopia of scents: blackberry, briary, cedar and a lovely mintiness that recalls Palmer. The palate is silky smooth with great depth and delineation, satin-like, multi-layered, precocious black fruit laced…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Cantenac Brown has a bright nose of blackberry and bilberry fruit, cedar and tobacco emerging with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins and fleshy, brambly red fruit laced with cedar and white tea, leading to a cohesive finish. I was parsimonious with my score in the past, but…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Cantenac Brown is a super-concentrated, potent Margaux. Raspberry jam, mocha, licorice, plum, new oak and spice are all lavishly rendered. Broad and sweeping on the palate, with tremendous richness and resonance, Cantenac Brown is one of the bigger, more overt Margauxs of the vintage. Readers should expect a big, ripe wine. In several…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Haut-Brion has a superb bouquet with very well-defined blackberry, cedar, cigar humidor and dried blood scents that blossom in the glass – quintessential Haut-Brion. The palate is medium-bodied with an almost medicinal entry and fine acidity. It’s the eucalyptus aspect that really defines the finish, something that I was not expecting. Does that…