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2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Saturated red-ruby. Nicely delineated aromas of black raspberry, cherry and minerals. Bright, high-pitched fruits sweetened by spicy oak. Finishes very suave, sappy and long, with fine-grained tannins. Very expressive for this wine at such a young stage of its evolution.

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Reseve de la Comtesse is round, sensual and inviting, with sweet floral notes that give the wine much of its up-front appeal. Silky, polished tannins wrap around a core of black cherry jam, plum, smoke and savory herbs. The 2012 could use a bit more mid-palate depth, but it is an attractive wine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Réserve de la Comtesse has a well-defined pencil box-scented bouquet, tightly-wound black fruit with just a light floral tincture. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, a little dry compared to the previous wine [2012 d’Armailhac]. Bullish and assertive with strong tobacco notes on the finish. Where will this go? Tasted blind at…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(13.6% alcohol; 40 h/h): Bright red. Very complex, deep nose of blackcurrant, red cherry, coffee, tar, tobacco leaf and flowers. Then smooth, rich and dense, with a creamy texture and lively acidity nicely extending the flavors of dark berries, plum, mocha, soy sauce, leather and Oriental spices. A ripely tannic wine with a rich, exotic…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that once upon a time I drank regularly, although I had not seen it since March 2016. Poured against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this is the clear winner. Still youthful in color with modest bricking. The bouquet explodes from the glass with kirsch, mulberry, antique furniture and black truffle…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep healthy red-ruby. Knockout nose combines nearly candied cherry and raspberry fruit, grilled nuts, coffee, tobacco, game, earth and mint. Great silky sweetness in the mouth, thanks to fabulously pure, ripe cabernet franc. Finishes with extraordinary sweetness and great persistence, with the ripe tannins currently buried under a wave of fruit. A fabulous vintage for…