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Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

Just weeks after tasting the 2001 Château d’Yquem at the estate, another bottle was served at a lunch in London and it was perfection. The aromatics are practically identical and likewise the palate, but this bottle, which had been decanted, displays a scintilla more tension, perhaps more “vibrancy” that so effortlessly counterbalances the richness. Irrespective…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château d’Yquem at 20 years old: a legend? It certainly received much adulation on release. As a reminder, it was picked over five tries from September 18 to October 23 and has 150g/L of residual sugar. Limpid gold in color, as you would expect, it looks quite youthful for a Sauternes of this…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1977 Croft Vintage Port has a clear garnet core. The nose is ripe and attractive, but lacking the complexity of the 1977 Taylor’s: hints of cherry, brambly red-berried fruit, ginger and honey, though improving with time in glass as more blackberry leaf element begin to appear. The palate is sweet, ripe, very primordial considering…

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Medium yellow. Aromas of white peach, lemon, menthol and mint. Juicy on entry, then on the lean side, with saline minerality and wet stone dominating lemony fruit. I wanted a bit more concentration to stand up to the slightly tart acidity. A laid-back wine with a dry lemon-and-stone finish. Seems a tad pinched.

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers is at once one of the riper wines in this lineup but it also comes across as nuanced and quite fine. It reveals multiple shades of inner sweetness to match its sublime, textured fruit. Light honeyed tones and mint wrap around the dense, insistent finish. The Vergers is exuberant and…

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2013 Masseto is a wine of real vibrancy, clarity and precision. In some moments, the 2013 shows a bit of its voluptuous fruit, but it is rich, structured and clearly in need of time. Like all Massetos from cooler years, the 2013 is a long-distance runner. Give it time. A warm, dry summer helped…