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Paul Hobbs’ Cabernet Beckstoffer To Kalon: 1999-2016 (Jul 2019)

Bright, saturated ruby-red. Creamy scents of black raspberry, dark chocolate, cocoa nibs, graphite and crushed rock. A bit less refined and delineated in the middle palate than the ’14, with its flavors of black and red cherry and cocoa powder showing serious plushness and weight but also very good energy. These tannins may not be…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard has come together nicely since I tasted it last year. The slightly raw edges that were present in barrel are now gone, and what emerges from the glass is Cabernet that is surprisingly sensual and delicate for this Oakville site. Sweet red cherry jam, floral and spice…

Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2014 Ornellaia is a powerful, earthy wine. As has always been the case, the 2014 has a very strong, powerful imprint with heavy toast notes. In 2014, Ornellaia is very dark, with a distinctive mocha/torrefaction component that has always been one of its signatures. I confess, the 2014 remains a mystery wine. I just…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

The 2015 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill shows off the savory side of the vintage to great effect. Hints of dried pear, sage, mint, dried flowers, lemon oil and chamomile open gradually in this mid-weight, lithe edition of Pol Roger’s tête de cuvée. The 2015 unfolds nicely with time in the glass, but I wouldn’t…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2015 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill shows off the savory side of the vintage to great effect. Hints of dried pear, sage, mint, dried flowers, lemon oil and chamomile open gradually in this mid-weight, lithe edition of Pol Roger’s tête de cuvée. The 2015 unfolds nicely with time in the glass, but I wouldn’t…

Chianti Classico: The Brilliant 2021s & Variable 2020s (Aug 2023)

The 2020 Tignanello is so primary, so intensely fruit-driven, that it almost tastes like a barrel sample. A burst of red Sangiovese fruit opens first, followed by hints of blood orange, cinnamon, spice, dried flowers and mocha later. Time in the glass brings out striking dimension. In 2020, Tignanello is wonderfully sleek and racy, with…